This story is part of the Ensemble Wellington edit, thanks to WellingtonNZ
Who better to showcase the best of our vibrant capital city than its stylish locals? Four creatives who call different parts of Pōneke home take us on a tour of their favourite neighbourhood haunts, from restaurants to museums, gorgeous public gardens to handy bus routes.
Juno Miers, co-owner of restaurant Margot
Juno Miers is a beloved face in Wellington’s bustling hospo scene, having worked at several of the city’s best spots. In August she and husband Tom Adam opened the doors to their restaurant Margot in Newtown, in the spot formerly occupied by Mason, and it’s quickly became one of the hottest - and charming - spots in town.
The long-term Wellington resident lives near the restaurant in Melrose, in a “beautiful slice of native bush dotted with amazing huge pine trees” and full of Kaka, Piwakawaka and Tui
“Wellington is the most homely city I’ve ever known – the proximity to nature/the ocean, culture/restaurants/nightlife, the neighbourly community – there is just a real feeling of comfort and camaraderie here,” says Juno, who grew up in Island Bay and has kept to the Southern suburbs since flatting.
Favourite place for a drink (and what is that drink)?
Ooh, tough one. Obviously in my line of work you can imagine I am pretty passionate about beverages of all kinds! It would either be Crumpet for a Naked & Famous, Hawthorn Lounge for a Martini, or Puffin for a wine.
Best place for breakfast – and what is it?
Egmont Street Eatery, but I order the least breakfasty thing on the menu! And a Bloody Mary.
Where do you get your morning coffee, and what’s your order?
A filter from People’s Newtown – or a filter made by me at Margot.
The restaurant you’ve been going to for years?
Favourite restaurant to visit with friends?
Ortega Fish Shack.
For something fancy?
Best ‘cheap eat’?
I absolutely adore Indian Sweets & Snacks in Newtown. You can find me there twice a week sometimes. Otherwise Som Tum Thai is my favourite BYO at the moment. Super authentic thai, everything really spicy and funky with lots of street food and spicy salads on the menu.
Brunch on a Sunday: where would we find you?
Egmont St Eatery!
Your local bar or pub?
My go to is The Welsh Dragon on a Sunday afternoon.
Favourite place for date night?
Rita.
Where do you go for ‘special’, non-supermarket food or drink?
I love the Asian Food Market on Donald McLean Street, or the Indian supermarket in Kilbirnie.
Favourite place for live music?
My family has not one but two techno/house DJs in it (my dad and brother), so naturally I have ended up with quite a penchant for a good doof gig – there isn’t one venue that constantly has the gigs on I want to see, but they’re usually at San Fran, Club 121 or Valhalla. Otherwise, I love going to The Opera House for a live concert.
Where do you go for some relaxation or a beauty treatment?
Hana Akari for a massage!
Favourite clothing store that never lets you down?
I am mostly a vintage shopper, but if I am going to splurge on something new it would be Goodness Boutique or KauKau.
Where do you go for a workout?
I walk around the town belt and Southern walkways.
If someone was visiting Wellington - and/or your neighbourhood - what’s the one place you would recommend they visit?
I always end up suggesting a tour based on whatever the person likes to do. That’s what I love about Wellington, you can do so much in a visit. It’s an indecisive person’s dream! e.g. Start with coffee at Customs, brunch at Egmont St or Highwater, weather dependant either go for a big walk around the waterfront or town belt – Zealandia if you want some good birdwatching, or hide from bad weather at the board game café.
Later, head to Ortega Fish Shack early for oysters, snacks and a martini, and then slowly make your way up to Rita for a late booking. And if you have any energy left after that, head to Hawthorn or Crumpet for a digestivo!
Janhavi Gosavi, editor of Salient
Student culture is a big influence on inner city Wellington, with Janhavi Gosavi at the helm of one of its leading symbols. The current editor of Salient magazine, Victoria University’s respected student magazine, Janhavi also recently completed her Bachelor of Arts majoring in history, cultural anthropology and theatre.
She grew up in the Johnsonville-Newlands-Churton Park tri-suburb area, an area she has found a newfound respect for. “Since turning 18, I found myself commuting in and out of the CBD on a daily basis, whether that was for university, work, or socialising. I love the busyness of the city but the hubbub can be draining,” she says. “I used to find it frustrating that I lived a fair distance away from central Wellington, but now I’m grateful that my slice of suburbia gives me an opportunity to switch off.”
Favourite place for a drink (and what is that drink)?
I have recently discovered my penchant for gin sours! It's my new favourite cocktail because it has a perfect balance between sweet and sour… although I do order mine explicitly on the sweet side because I am a child. After making the gin sour rounds at a few different bars, my favourites are the Clover’s Kiss from Egmont St Eatery (a raspberry gin sour) and The Secret Life of Bees from The Library (a honey gin sour).
Favourite restaurant to visit with friends?
I’ve been taking my friends to Mr Circle for years, which is not as much a restaurant as it is a hole-in-the-wall food stall. Mr Circle serves jian bing, a delicious savoury crepe loaded with fillings which is a popular Chinese street food.
There are a few different locations around the city but my favourite one sits at the end of Courtenay Place. It's connected to another Asian eatery, Dear Noodle, which means you can enjoy your jian bing seated inside, away from the horrors of Welly weather. Service is fast and my friends and I often have the restaurant to ourselves, so we can talk as loud as we’d like and eat as slow as we’d like.
Best ‘cheap eat’?
Everywhere I eat is a ‘cheap eat’, that’s the nature of being a 22-year-old who just finished her Bachelor of Arts. My favourites are A Taste of Home on Vivian Street and KC Cafe on Courtenay Place.
A Taste of Home is famous for its signature hand-pulled noodles, which are to die for. I’d recommend calling them ahead of time and placing an order for pickup, as there is minimal seating inside and the wait times are quite long!
KC Cafe is a Chinese restaurant with over 150 items on their menu! I highly recommend broadening your horizons and trying something new – chances are KC will impress you. If you’re overwhelmed with the variety, check out @kc_review on Instagram who are on a mission to review every single item on the menu.
Some other fantastic cheap eats: Lucky Chicken for their fried chicken ‘Bomber’ burger and Viet Food (inside Captial Market) for their Banh-Mi!
Where do you go for ‘special’, non-supermarket food or drink?
Bubble tea is my life force and while there are many independent bubble tea shops cropping up all around Wellington, no one does it quite like Gong Cha.
They have a wide variety of concoctions on offer, and my favourites are the Grapefruit Green Tea with White Pearl (for a refreshing wakeup) and the brown sugar Dirtea (if you enjoy a drink that's really more of a dessert).
Gong Cha also cooks their pearls to perfection - not too soft and not too hard. The Manners Street store has a welcoming vibe; you can sit there and chat for hours without being bothered, and the free Wi-Fi is always a bonus!
The great thing about Gong Cha being a chain restaurant is that it has locations across the country, so I can get my bubble tea fix in and out of Wellington.
(Rest in peace to Gong Cha’s Mango Matcha with Mango Pearl… I miss you and I am manifesting your return to the menu).
Your local bar or pub?
El Barrio is a Latino bar on Dixon Street, upstairs from Eva Beva. They play live Latino music, have themed nights, and the regulars can dance so well. And they’re not afraid to pull you in for a spontaneous salsa.
Favourite gallery or museum?
I adore nature and animals but I am also physically built like an indoor houseplant – the outside world is usually not for me. The Te Taiao exhibit at Te Papa is a fantastic middle ground; I get to experience the wonders of Aotearoa’s natural world from inside our national museum. My favourite parts are the Colossal Squid (fun fact, she’s a girl) and the albatross diorama!
If someone was visiting Wellington - and/or your neighbourhood - what’s the one place you would recommend they visit?
Counter Culture is a board game cafe nestled in Victoria Street, and it is my happy place. I go there to unwind, to leave the worries and woes of the real world behind and escape into a board game… that I will most probably lose. Who said you have to be good at something to enjoy it?
A game pass will cost you $5 with any food or beverage purchase, and lets you access over 900 board games for three hours. It's the perfect way to spend a cosy afternoon.
I am a firm believer in protecting what is sacred to you, so I would only recommend visiting Counter Culture with friends who are a certified good time and possess the patience to read long instruction booklets.
Anything - or anywhere - you’d like to add? A park? A bus stop? A little corner of the city that you simply adore? And why?
The number 1 bus is the best bus route. This is not up for debate. It takes you from Island Bay, through Newtown, across the Golden Mile of central Wellington, over the motorway and into Johnsonville.
This route has great frequency and takes you sightseeing across various parts of Wellington. Try to get the front seats at the top of a double decker bus for a primo view.
Hannah Truly, botanical paper sculpture artist and founder of Paper Scssrs Art Studio
If you visit Wellington boutique Havilah you’ll spot the gorgeous and intricate creations of Hannah Truly, who works her magic to create realistic paper sculptures of flowers and botanicals. The artist, who also takes commissions, moved with her family to Trentham in Upper Hutt in 2020, just before the first lockdown. And while she misses city living, she says the benefits of having a big garden has made up for the move.
“Being a little further out from the city the weather is slightly more forgiving which means a more than abundant garden that doesn’t suffer from so much wind and rain,” she says. “Our rental came with two feijoa trees, a lemon tree and a greenhouse, with plenty of gardening space which has allowed me to practice my gardening skills. I’ve also been able to explore an area I’ve never spent time in, and find the little gems hidden up here.”
Having lived in the city since the age of 16, Hannah appreciates its poetic mix. “I love the derelict Brutalist buildings around the city, its wild weather, its love of vintage and coffee, the overgrowth around the city, and the ocean hem,” she says.
“Everyone says ‘you can’t beat Wellington on a good day’ but I like Wellington best when you’re hidden in the corner of one of the few treasured bookstores, while the rain pummels the pavement and the wind howls like a banshee.”
Favourite place for a drink?
My favourite drink in the city would have to be a Pimm’s Cup from Crumpet bar, it’s always the most delectable.
Where do you get your morning coffee - and what’s your order?
Almost always an entire French press of L’affare coffee, black, at home. When I was more of a city dweller I was always heading to Aro Bake for a black coffee and a salted caramel donut, best start to any morning.
The restaurant you’ve been going to for years?
I’ve been going to Floriditas for as long as I can remember. It is a favourite of my Dads so it’s always the go-to for breakfast, lunch and dinner when family is visiting. We most often each order a steak with a few sides to share and it’s always the most satisfying meal.
Favourite restaurant to visit with friends?
I take my friends, and most often my toddler, to 1154 Pastaria. I love their fettuccine carbonara and rosemary bread rolls, and it’s always a big favourite with my daughter. The casual dining set up and the lovely tile work makes the space feel relaxed and inviting, a great space to bring the family without compromising on atmosphere and taste.
For something fancy?
I don’t do fancy often, so I’d have to insist on absolute fancy, which would be Atlas. The menu is the epitome of fancy food, but I especially love the care that is taken with the food, churning their own butter, curing and pickling things, finding meat and fish that is ethically sourced. That attention to detail is the little bit extra that makes their dishes heavenly, plus the food is gorgeously instagram worthy and the experience incredible.
Best ‘cheap eat’?
For cheap and cheerful food I’m heading to Left Bank for Oriental Kingdom Cafe. I'm devoted to their lamb roti chanai.
Favourite gallery or museum?
Since galleries are often now tools to entertain my almost 3-year-old, the Dowse has quickly become a favourite. The robot statue outside the gallery is beloved and provides lots of entertainment, there are always wonderful exhibits for the adult eyes, and the play area for kids is fantastic.
Best kept shopping secret?
One of the benefits of moving out of the city is finding the hidden gems in Upper Hutt. Take Me Back is a little vintage store brimming with carefully sourced vintage decor, furniture, bric and brac, clothing, toys and more. I’ve found so many treasures from there since discovering the shop, including an adorable child’s cane rocking chair, heavy duty metal kenzan for flower arranging, and some of the prettiest vases to add to my collection.
It’s worthwhile taking a day to venture to Upper Hutt just for this store, though while you are up the op-shops dotted around are also full of treasure looking for new life.
Favourite clothing store that never lets you down?
Ziggurat will always be my ‘never lets me down’ store. Having shopped there for many years and then working there for many years including throughout my pregnancy, it’s like a second home.
If you love vintage fashion, it is the destination, particularly for 1900s-1970s era items. The place is a tiny museum crammed full of stories from the past. Sometimes you’ll even get to learn the origin of a 40s cocktail dress made for the wife of a famous author, or the history of Burberry trench worn by some stylish London mod in the 60s, an ideal place to time travel in.
I also can’t go past [Wellington-based brand] Kowtow as the epitome of reliability for everyday clothing, I love their loose silhouettes, easy to wear clothes, fun fabrics and colour palettes, the effortless style, the aim at sustainability and ethical production
Where do you go when you’re after local art or design?
Havilah is a mix of stunning, eccentric fashion brimming with bold, delightful colours, as well as interesting, fun homewares, art, accessories, many made right here in Wellington. You can even spot a few of my paper poppies adding to the bright, bold, and beautiful little store. It’s absolutely the place you need to be supporting and spending your money.
If someone was visiting Wellington - and/or your neighbourhood - what’s the one place you would recommend they visit?
Having lived in Wellington for many years I’ve lived in a lot of different suburbs around the city, particularly as a student.
The best place was when I lived in Melrose, up by the Truby King Gardens. Slightly out of the way, gorgeous hillside garden, a dazzling view of Lyall Bay, with patches of overgrowth swallowing up old pathways and archways, bushes buzzing with insects, it gives Secret Garden, Picnic at Hanging Rock, Victorian era vibes, and has the odd soundscape of native birdsong and the calls from the Lions, Gibbons, and other loud creatures from the Zoo below.
Anything - or anywhere - you’d like to add? A park? A bus stop? A little corner of the city that you simply adore?
Twig and Arrow is an adorable little flower boutique, I love the style and palettes of their arrangements and they also have really awesome flower styling workshops in different themes which I’ve been eyeing up attending. They deliver their gorgeous bouquets around Wellington, even out to Upper Hutt, but I love visiting their little store, tucked underground, airy and fresh, and brimming with the most beautiful blooms.
Jhana Millers, gallerist
Wellington is a creative town, with a plethora of respected art galleries on offer - and gallerists with their own unique style, like Jhanna Millers. Her namesake gallery is in the Mibar Building building on the city's Victoria Street, where she represents a strong group of exciting young artists including Hannah Ireland, Harry Culy, Ayesha Green and Elisabeth Pointon.
“I love living in Te Whanganui-a-Tara Wellington for the condensed nature of the city – everything within the city centre is walkable and accessible – including the waterfront which wraps the centre,” says Jhana, who lives on the South Coast between Island and Houghton Bays.
“For a small city, this creates a hub, and a creative and lively atmosphere. Wellington has a strong visual arts community, endless restaurants and cafes, great shopping, as well as having amazing beaches, dive sites and bush walks within a stone’s throw from the city centre.”
What’s so great about where you live?
The views and the ever-changing nature of the South Coast. The ocean can be calm and bathed in a soft pink hue or be raging, with enormous swells in a wild Southerly storm. It is always changing and there is never a dull moment. On any given day of the year, we might see dolphins, orca, seals, herons, little blue penguins, gannets, or one time, a spoonbill kōtuku straight out from the house.
Favourite place for a drink (and what is that drink)?
Anywhere that serves a good negroni, which is almost any bar in Wellington. We are spoilt for choice.
The restaurant you’ve been going to for years?
I love the freshness of Asian fusion food and often take my artists to Apache and Dragonfly after exhibition openings
Favourite restaurant to visit with friends?
Kisa is a new restaurant that serves Turkish cuisine, and is perfect if you and your friends are obsessed with Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipe books and want to eat that style of food without cooking it yourself
Best ‘cheap eat’?
My favourite is The Fisherman’s Plate on Bond Street, a small fish and chip shop / Vietnamese restaurant. I have been going there for ever, but now I work across the road, and it is my default lunch spot when I am not organised to bring food from home. The Pad Thai and Lamb and Lemongrass Pho are my favourite.
Favourite place for date night?
The ocean has got into our blood, so much so that we now own a small boat, and a perfect date day for us is to get out onto, or into the water.
Your regular supermarket?
Lately we have been trying to eat more organic food and lessen our use of plastic, so now do most of our shopping at Common Sense Organics in Tory Street or Kilbirnie. We used to only do partial shops there, but now they have most food and household items that you need, with great deals on leafy greens and seasonal fruit bags, as well as bulk foods and an eco-store refillery.
Where do you go for ‘special’, non-supermarket food or drink?
Baron Hasselhoff's chocolatiers in Berhampore make some of the best chocolate in the country, their coffee and croissant dark milk bar makes a perfect gift or treat for yourself
Favourite gallery or museum?
Is this a trick question…? All us dealers in Wellington get along and we recommend shows at each other’s galleries to visitors.
For public galleries there is the City Gallery Wellington, The Adam Art Gallery, Te Papa, The Portrait Gallery and then only a 15-minute drive from town is Pataka and The Dowse Art Museum.
Where do you go for some relaxation or a beauty treatment?
To stop myself from chewing my nails, a lifelong habit, I have started getting my nails done at Queen Beauty Salon on Bond Street. Again, its proximity to the gallery is helpful, but it’s considered one of the best in the city – and their nails last for week.
Favourite clothing store that never lets you down?
Caughley is the best clothing store in Wellington for a mixture of designers from Aotearoa and overseas, and with exceptional and helpful customer service.
Where do you go when you’re after local art or design?
I pop downstairs to Yu Mei or Vessel, two excellent Wellington stores that offer luxury leather goods, ceramics, books, hand-made blankets and are the perfect places for a range of gifts for yourself and others.
If someone was visiting Wellington - and/or your neighbourhood - what’s the one place you would recommend they visit?
I would suggest a walk or a drive around the waterfront and around the South Coast – the fact that Wellington is enclosed by water is one of the best aspects of the city.
Anything - or anywhere - you’d like to add? A park? A bus stop? A little corner of the city that you simply adore?
I am ocean obsessed – during the summer you can swim at Oriental Bay beach, a moderate temperature, only a 10-20 minute walk from anywhere in the city, and for along the south Coast, Princess Bay is the best spot to catch the last of the sun, if you’re up for a ‘refreshing’ swim.
