Fungi is cool! And functional. And, as geologist and fungi expert Liv Sisson enthuses in her new book Fungi of Aotearoa: A Curious Forager's Field Guide, the damp, drizzly dark conditions of a New Zealand winter form the perfect conditions for foraging (or mindfully observing) them.
There’s beauty (and deliciousness) to be found in the bush if you only know where to look. We spoke to Liv, an American now based in Otāutahi Christchurch, to get her best tips on where to go. And what to wear!
Why fungi?
I've always had a big appreciation for nature and small things, and have lots of fun memories growing up with my parents. My dad's a landscape architect and my mum's a gardener; we spent a lot of time outside, investigating our backyard, investigating fallen trees after big hurricanes to see what bugs were breaking them down and what fungi were taking hold.
I've always had a curious eye to the little things around me. I studied geology at university and had the chance to do a lot of field work in Virginia, USA. Our beautiful old forests and rocks are really interesting, but they're the same day-to-day. They're changing on a much longer time scale. So I started noticing the lichen and the fungi and the plants and the fauna around the sites that I was researching.
Then I moved to New Zealand with fresh eyes. The bush is so different here compared to the US. I noticed all of the amazing purple mushrooms and pink lichens and orange lichens, and fell in love with these charismatic textural unique organisms and really fell down the rabbit hole probably 5-8 years ago.
What are your top foraging tips for nervy people keen to give it a go?
Start with the easy stuff. There are a lot of species throughout the book listed as easy to forage, which of course is relative but it indicates that there are quite a few species out there that are a lot easier to identify than others and don't have dangerous lookalikes. They're lower stakes, and they have unique features that alert you to the fact you probably have what you think you have.
It's all about not being in a rush. If you're in a hurry, that's not a recipe for success. Take your time, enjoy the journey.
You want to use a couple of resources and do your research. If you really want to try porcini, go to a great Italian restaurant and try it there, then keep looking for porcini in your forging adventures – and eventually you'll find one.
What are your top four places for fungi spotting around Aotearoa?
There’s a real variety around the country, but these are four spots where I've had really magical finds:
1. Obviously Otāutahi/Christchurch is where I spend most of my time, since I live here. But we have really unique edible species including porcini, which were introduced accidentally via Hagley Park. So they're not meant to be here, they grow in association with non-native trees but they are so tasty.
We also have lots of puffballs around the city and other types of edible boletes. So within Canterbury you've got cool opportunities to forage introduced species like porcini or birch bolete, but also native species like tawaka.
2. In terms of seeing amazing endemic New Zealand species that aren't edible but aren't found anywhere else, I’d head to the West Coast of the South Island. The native bush is absolutely stunning and it’s where I've seen werewere kōkako, the blue species on my book cover [and the NZD$50 note].
I was there around Easter time and there’d been lots of rain. Everything was just so verdant and lush, and I saw fungi in every single colour of the rainbow just on a little day walk. There are amazing little species that are almost illuminated in that deep dark native bush of the West Coast.
3. I’ve also seen some absolutely amazing fungi around Lake Waikaremoana in the North Island. I think I counted literally almost 100 bright purple coral mushrooms on a day walk there. I'm talking like crazy almost artificial purple colours, like you’d expect a lolly to be coloured. So eye-catching and beautiful.
4. Finally, for the last one I’d say Rakiura/Stewart Island. I've been there twice to do the Great Walk and I've never seen a Kiwi, but I have seen some absolutely amazing lichen. It’s where I first really fell in love with New Zealand fungi and got super interested in the topic.
Liv’s foraging and fungi must-haves
• I am obsessed with my Poly Pocket hot pink pocket knife from Svord, made in Waiuku. It’s very good for foraging and cleaning up mushroom finds.
• I end up wearing Kowtow bits and bobs out foraging a lot. Their pieces are so comfy and functional. My current favourite foraging ‘fit is this dark green denim suit. It’s like camouflage but stylish.
• These mushroom chocolates from LA are calling my name – I love their branding and also love snack food. I think they've really nailed the functional fungi, nootropic trend in that you get the benefits from the functional fungi but the product itself is yummy and ready to be consumed immediately so it feels less like a supplement and more like a treat
• I have (and love) these made in NZ blue mushroom werewere kokako Entoloma hochstetteri earrings by DiLa & Co, from Etsy.
• Just when I thought Rodarte mushroom gowns couldn't get better, Lorde wore one. Lorde in a mushroom gown/cape set is a mushroom motif I can get behind.
• I have these glass earrings by Kate Mitchell and get a crazy amount of compliments on them. People are always like, “I love your mushroom earrings” and then when I say “thanks they're broccoli though”, they love them even more.
• I love all of Marle's knitwear in shade of Porcini.
• The Patagonia Synchilla is my go to foraging fleece.
• I have totally jumped on the Hoka trend. I usually wear my Hoka sneakers foraging but I really want their hiking boots.
Main image: Photography by Paula Vigus for Fungi of Aotearoa.
Fungi of Aotearoa: A Curious Forager's Field Guide by Liv Sisson, $45 (published by Penguin NZ)
