*This story first ran on Stuff. It contains spoilers.
She threatens a child, abuses her professional power in countless reprehensible ways, is serially unfaithful to her wife and is complicit in the death of her former lover.
Cancelled fictional conductor Lydia Tár is far from a role model, but extremely toxic traits aside, her wardrobe is hugely covetable. Portrayed onscreen by the supremely chic Cate Blanchett, Tár has one of the more clearly defined aesthetics of recent times. Distinctive and enviable, this is costuming at its finest.
The look shares subtle and expensive threads with the ‘stealth wealth’ look we all swooned over when watching Sienna Miller in Anatomy of a Scandal last year, but there's nothing soft power about this style of dressing.
Rather, Tár embodies the ultimate in lesbian power dressing: all clean lines, sharp silhouettes and fine fabrics. There are masculine influences throughout, which perhaps speaks to society's notions of what a powerful person looks like as much as it does to Tár's uneasy fixation with her male professional peers and predecessors.
The film's costume designer, Bina Daigeler, told the Guardian that both comparisons were intentional. “I think we all do this – when we need to project strength, we dress in a certain way. [Lydia] Tár is a lot about power and strength.”
Whether she's manipulating her underlings in the blonde oak surrounds of the concert hall, speeding dangerously through the cold streets of Berlin or roaming around her painstakingly decorated Brutalist apartment, Tár does it in a refined palette of muted colours. She seldom strays from the grey, black, brown and rust red colour wheel.
It suits both her locale and her dark disposition so perfectly that it has inspired a whole season of dressing, named by The Cut as the Frigid Bitch Winter. But like the other defining elements of Tár's aesthetic, a restricted palette of go-to colours works just as well for those with a less menacing schedule and more stable state of mind. For a start, it makes choosing what to wear on a daily basis that much easier, everything goes together.
Yes the threads we see on screen are designed for Blanchett's figure, and the film's opening scenes make it clear that Tár has a penchant for custom-made – but I’m not suggesting you would, or should, drop your entire salary on a closet of bespoke suits. There are, thankfully, many more accessible ways to incorporate elements of this look into your own wardrobe.
Tár’s aerobic conducting style necessitates clothing that doesn't restrict movement. This makes her wardrobe, filled with wide leg pants with sophisticatedly supportive waistbands and breathable fabrics, ideal for traversing the practicalities of your work day too – even if you get to the office via public transport rather than a frighteningly fast sports car.
It’s a silhouette that’s clearly appeals to modern dressers, with shops full of sophisticated suiting, relaxed silhouettes and pleated trousers.
She's particularly adept at the art of layering, sliding turtlenecks under button-up shirts and slinging a cashmere jumper over her shoulder. It’s an approach that is especially judicious for trans-seasonal dressing and goes part way to solving this season’s most expedient questions: how are we meant to dress when the weather proves wholly unreliable?
Pulled on like a coat of armour in an sub-par attempt to protect her from the looming consequences of her many ill-judged decisions, Tár’s expertly-cut oversized black coat is by The Row, of course. The brand is the brainchild of Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, themselves doyennes of chic-with-an-edge outerwear.
If Tár shopped locally she’d swap her sockless loafers for R.M William’s boots and don outerwear from Harris Tapper, who describe their offering as “easy elegance, subversive femininity and sculptural minimalism.”