If Kristine Crabb didn’t get into fashion design, she would have happily been a makeup artist. “That was my other dream career, and when I was little I wanted to be a hairdresser. I've always been rather beauty obsessed and it often informs my feelings when making new clothes and new work,” she says.
Known for her glamorous and bold yet minimalist clothes, Kristine likes to keep her own beauty style “pretty classic, yet always subversive in some way. I don't wear much makeup now, other than a large red lip and big hair.”
Indeed, the Gloria (formerly Miss Crabb) designer is easily recognised by her tangle of jet-black curls and exaggerated red pout – but before she settled on this signature look, she tried just about every crayon in the box.
From goth black to Marilyn blonde and Tori Amos orange, long bohemian locks to Sinead O’Connor buzzcuts – you name it, Kristine’s done it. She’s a true beauty chameleon, and a well-documented one at that.
Who better to kick off our new regular series, My Life In Beauty - exploring the different looks and lessons people have learnt through the years - than Kristine Crabb. Opening up her archives, she tells us where her love of subversive beauty started, the look she wants but is “too scared” to try, and how at 45, she’s finally in love with her face.
People come to you for fashion, but you’re also a diehard beauty girl. How has your look evolved over the years?
Beauty has been one of my creative outlets throughout my life. As a teenager I started making clothes and being creative with what I wore, and around this time I started to develop an anti-beauty or punk style in lots of ways. Then when I went to fashion school in the late 90s in Whanganui, a pretty isolated small town, I met some like-minded artists and dear ones.
When I came to Tāmaki in the early 2000s, I continued to experiment a lot with beauty and style. Now I look back and think, why didn’t I make the most of my natural beauty? (lol #mom). I shaved my head a bunch of times over the years. I’ve been goth black, platinum blonde, Tori Amos orange, had a short smooth crop, Marilyn style, smooth bed hair and mostly just a big mop! I definitely had more fun as blonde, I felt like it brought me abundance too. I prefer being natural and dark though - it suits me better, makes me happier.
When I started having my kids about 16 years ago, I went back to my earthy beauty ways, more out of necessity than anything. My hair went straight over this time which was something I had been dreaming of since I was 13. These days I'm still ‘doin it big’ with big hair and big lips but that's about it! It suits my style and schedule most.
What is your earliest memory of beauty?
Probably watching my mum getting ready, the scents of the makeup, perfume and hair spray of the 70s and 80s that I still love. She always looked so happy in her transformative zone, and I just loved her outfits – kinda over the top, very glam and sexy. She looked a bit like Farrah Fawcett at that time.
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Who are your biggest beauty influences?
Dolly Parton, PJ Harvey, Paz de la Huerta, 90s Margiela, [makeup artist] Inge Grognard, my mum. I worked in a perfume boutique as a teenager called The Perfumery, and became obsessed with its transformative power (I also read Patrick Suskind’s Perfume). I loved all the iconic advertising campaigns of the 90s: Chanel, Christian Dior, YSL, Calvin Klein, Cacherel, and Isabella Rossellini for Lancôme.
What was the first beauty product you fell in love with?
Conditioner for curly hair! Leaving it in and letting it air-dry helps to reign in the frizz and volume and make soft and pillowy ringlets. I cottoned on to this hack when I was 14 and still do it.
What's your ethos when it comes to beauty? Has this changed?
My approach to beauty is always simple and classic, also bold and a little exaggerated for fun. I love an element of drag, 100%. A little bit rough; punk or rock you could say. These days I get to add facials and massage to my beauty regimen, also a fabulous manicure is a must for my hard-working creative hands.
I used to be more ‘Avant Garde’ with my look… these days it's refined and sophisticated but all the elements are still there.
Do you follow beauty trends?
I think trends do have an influence on me, naturally I’m immersed in life with my kids and in business but I think I do stick to my unique aesthetic which in essence has not really changed that much since fashion school days, it's simply become more confident, more natural. I love beauty at the moment because it encapsulates EVERYTHING… there’s minimalist, maximalist, drag, eyebrow game tight, natural and artificial, over the top! I love the trend for thin eyebrows being back, mine are thin again now. I love seeing style and beauty in real life on the street too. It's a really creative time, time to be free and beautiful – maybe even as a resistance!
Any beauty looks you would love to try that you haven't yet?
I would love to have my lips done, made bigger and more over the top but I’m too scared; also I lead a very busy life.
How have you approached ageing, in terms of beauty? Who are your hag goals?
Wow great question. I turned 45 this year which I’ve always looked forward to reaching this milestone, what a privilege. My parents were both fabulous and thriving at this age and they still say that it's the best age of life, and I have to agree.
This year I’ve fallen in love with my face and the way I look. I guess it is something that only comes with age but I wish I had this gift of self love and confidence 25 years ago, honestly. It's a bit rude to the ancestors to not love the way you look. I mean, they were obviously clever and interesting people!
Since turning 40, I’ve found I really need to ‘maintain the system’ by way of physical and mental health for maximum beauty. I love going to Sala and East West yoga studios. I’m really looking forward to visiting the new red light sauna and plunge pools at Sala. My next beauty phase is going to be super-fitness – same as I was when I was 30 haha.
My hag goals? I always loved Mama Vivienne Westwood, through the years she always looked so radiant at every age, like fully living the dream! She always had a signature kinda Avant Garde makeup and fabulous hair which I just love. And of course Aunty Pamela [Anderson] – her natural beauty and happiness is shining through. Also my dear friends who keep getting more and more beautiful.
What's the most sentimental beauty product to you?
My Gloria parfum made by my dear friend Tiffany Witehira of Curiornoir. The scent is an earthy and floral bouquet, based on the childhood memories of my grandmother Gloria’s otherworldly garden. It's been in my life for four years now and I still notice fresh nuances with the fragrance and how it makes me feel. Tiffany’s daughter Lilith thinks Gloria is her mothers magnum opus and I can't help but agree!
What’s your beauty product philosophy?
I just use a nice rich moisturiser each morning, that's all I’ve done for the last 30 years. I like maximum richness for my skin and hair. I love natural and NZ made products where possible. I also take apple cider vinegar every day, it’s so good for your overall health and wellbeing. I love Eithne Curran and Botaniq products for hair.
What beauty item makes you feel like your true authentic self?
Probably lipstick – it always adds great energy to my day and I'm colour obsessed. It's a simple luxury, the ritual.
Will we see another Gloria beauty collab sometime in the future? Any hints?
OMG I've wanted to do a lipstick line for years… Hopefully 2024 will be the year I can start to delve.
What’s on your current beauty wishlist?
A Buccal Massage facial at [Auckland facialist] Skinography
This is next level goodness for your face and soul; it feels like a strong face and mood lift! It's good inspiration for giving yourself a deep facial massage every day too.
IAMMI Olympia Glow serum and Just Kissed tinted serum
I love Mimi Gilmour and all her work. I've wanted to try her products for ages as it looks perfect for me and my busy life... Reflecting on beauty for this piece has motivated me to purchase them finally!
Kumo PhytoDose Prebiotic Milk toner
Really active range of skincare, feels so natural and heavenly too. It's created by the founder of Skinography, Kate Michelmore, and she really knows skin.
A new Hermès lipstick, please
I feel so rich taking this out and applying it. The colours and texture are perfect.
