"New York has been stricken by agave mania," Bloomberg declared in a June article titled Spicy Margaritas Are the New Espresso Martini.
It's catching. Not to let a lack of proximity to Mexico hold us back, New Zealand seems to have developed an unquenchable thirst for the tequila cocktail too.
In our typically dressed-down way as we fast approach what will be our own summer of the marg, local providers have brought to market a plethora of more accessible, and transportable, canned versions.
What can should tastemakers be cracking open (responsibly) this summer? We decided to find out by putting the trending tins under the pressure of our highly scientific blind taste-test. Keep reading to discover the slightly spicy results.
The method
To keep it fair, and to stop us from being swayed by brand loyalty, this tasting was done 'blind' – with a small pour of each margarita added to a single numbered cup. We served them straight up, without a salt rim or garnish to detract from the pure taste of the tinny.
We opened eight different margaritas. Some were tinged with chilli, some flavoured with grapefruit, most were your classic tequila, triple sec, and lime juice trio, one was alcohol-free.
All the brands are readily available at bottle shops. For the purpose of this tasting, we were gifted all the cans except the Guisado.
Meet the judging panel
Lyric, 23, Stuff national reporter: "I love anything citrusy. and a Moscow Mule."
Shandelle, 46, NZ House & Garden features editor: "I feel VERY good about margaritas, I especially like the salt around the rim - a definite downside for canned versions - also the slushy ice."
Catrin, 29, Stuff senior journalist: "I only drink canned alcohol in summer at gigs / festivals / parties."
Lara, 29, Ensemble publishing co-ordinator: "I'm an experimental cocktail drinker, but I prefer light over dark liquor. I like a Paloma."
Thomas, 39, Stuff data scientist: "I don't like flavoured margaritas, just normal."
Ant, 57, film director: "I love margaritas, and I drink canned alcohol semi-often."
Glenn, 26, Stuff political reporter: "I'm a big fan of margaritas. My usual cocktail of choice is a mojito."
Sarah, Gen X, NZ Gardener art director: "How often do I drink canned alcohol? Never ever."
The results (from worst to best):
8th - El Gusano Margarita 10x330ml 5%, $33
Lyric: "There's not a lot going on here. Very light, kinda like a low-alcohol G&T."
Glenn: "Tastes like watered down Raro. Isn’t this meant to be a margarita tasting?"
Catrin: "Boring and bland. No real taste, like watered down juice."
Sarah: "Dry as a bone. Inoffensive but watery."
Lara: "Watery - can't taste the alcohol or much flavour. Doesn't pack a punch. Inoffensive and somewhat refreshing."
Ant: "Not much kick. Bit nana. Like a light summer breeze."
Shandelle: "Not sugary, so low carb? A fairly nondescript bevvy. But probably good if you're shredding for R+V."
7th - Batched Salted Grapefruit Margarita 4x230ml 6%, $20
Sarah: "A good sweet / sour mix but a bit of a preservative taste.”
Shandelle: "No discernible scent of alcohol. I feel like there's a lot of sugar in this. Texture is like a sickly syrup - think cough syrup with lime and can that be fake salt?"
Glenn: "It's a drinkable grapefruit juice. I'm not a grapefruit fan but I like it. Could do with bubbles and ice."
Ant: "Surprisingly little smell given it's a taste assault. Under 25s would love it. Seems like it could do damage."
Lara: "The colour of 1000 island dressing. Tastes like a grapefruit Fruju. Hits pretty sweet – too sweet but diluted over soda water and ice would be a delicious summer drink."
Catrin: "This one is flat, not bubbly, which I prefer. Quite sweet though."
5th equal - Alba Sparkling Margarita 10x250ml 5.9%, $33
Glenn: "Smells like Zombie Chews, tastes like RTDs. Reminds me of a $1 lolly bag that's been smoothie-d and canned."
Catrin: "Subtle taste, kind of like lemonade."
Lyric: "Big meh! Would not be the drink of choice at Margaritaville."
Lara: "A little medicine-y. Tastes a bit like artificial lime, but I still like it. Over heaps of ice it would be yum."
Ant: "Has a citrus hit and lime notes. Front of the palette tingle. Aftertaste is… average."
Shandelle: "You can actually taste the tequila, which is nice. A couple of these on your way out to a gig would get you off to a great start."
Sarah: "Smells like a margarita, has a soft bubble but tastes like Aspartame."
5th equal - Pals Classic Margarita 10x250ml 5.8%, $32
Sarah: "Good bubble. But it tastes like grass clippings."
Shandelle: "Like a lime soft drink with a sprinkle of tequila. Oh god, bad aftertaste. help me."
Glenn: "Smells like 10pm at the Mexican Cafe. But surprisingly drinkable."
Ant: "More watery vibes. Can't pick up a fruit flavour."
Lara: "Tastes boring and slightly flat, like a slightly weak lemonade stirred by your mum to settle your stomach."
Catrin: "Could do with more oomph. Don't love the bubbles, but they're also not too offensive."
Lyric: "The potential is there. Just needs salt around the rim and a slice of lemon."
3rd equal - Pals Chilli Margarita Cans 10x250ml 5.8%, $32
Lyric: "There's some nice fruitiness in this. But it also tastes like kissing the wrong guy on a night out."
Catrin: "Not overwhelmed, not underwhelmed."
Lara” "Spicy bubbles (as in texture) hit the tongue. Tastes more tequila-y than the rest."
Ant: "A colour the doctor would be worried by. Has a lingering heat."
Glenn: "A plain drink to get started. Looks like sparkling water. Super drinkable."
Shandelle: "Very sour. Possibly low in sugar? Booze is quite dominant. I would drink this on a night out."
3rd equal - AF Grapefruit Margarita 12x250ml less than 0.5%, $45
Lara: "Tastes sour and zesty. Super grapefruity but not sweet and syrupy. I'd buy this, but it isn't a margarita."
Catrin: "Oooh I like this – I think it's a paloma. Has grapefruity freshness, not too bubbly and slightly less sweet than the others. Yum. I could drink these in the sunshine with some guac and chips."
Shandelle: "A nice mix of lime and tequila that doesn't seem too sweet."
Glenn: "Smells like you've mixed juices at a hotel breakfast, but surprisingly drinkable."
Ant: "Bold and arrogant smell. Tastes like sparkling grapefruit with chilli."
Thomas: "Tastes like those pink grapefruit drinks you used to be able to buy. Not heavily boozy."
2nd - Jose Cuervo Sparkling Margarita 4x330ml 4.2%, $19
Lara: "Smells like a Body Shop shower gel. I like the cloudiness of this - sea watery. I would drink this, but it needs a squeeze of citrus to balance out the salt. Not too sweet, which I like."
Glenn: "Tastes like a hangover is about to kick in. I'd totally drink this… after a few other drinks."
Catrin: "Definitely smells like a hangover. I'm getting a hint of salt and spice. Definitely a margie but not sure I could drink heaps though."
Ant: "Distant cousin of the margarita family. Fuck all colour. Flowery smell."
Lyric: "This tastes oddly familiar... like a long summer day on the beach."
1st - Alba Chilli Sparkling Margarita 4x250mL 5.9%, $16
Lyric: "I love the sharpness, the spice, the flavour... all it needs is ice!"
Shandelle: "Let's get this party started. Woohoo! This is a margarita on steroids - woah! The chilli gives it an insane kick. Love the heat, and the strong flavour."
Sarah: “This tastes like Trident Sweet Chilli and Lime sauce. Definitely the most interesting of the lot. Has a warm after burn."
Ant: "Fuck me. I'm a fan of Alba but they're taking the piss. More mezcal, less Kaitai Fire."
Thomas: "Initially I was surprised by the burning, but once I realised it's a chilli marg, it's yum. I wouldn’t drink if I didn't want chilli."
Catrin: "Wowee! That has a kick and one I'm not sure I love. I love spice but this doesn't quite work with the tequila."
Lara: "Smells like capsicum, looks like Fanta. She's a spicy mama. Packs a good punch, leaves heat on the tongue. A bit too spicy but I appreciate the flavour. I'd definitely drink this again but just one, over ice. A good pre-party drink to give a flush to the cheeks!"