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Fashion plays a leading role in these well-heeled TV shows

From fashion focused factuals to lavish period pieces and full frilled escapism, these stylish shows are a sight for eyes.

New in 2024

Feud: Capote vs The Swans 

Naomi Watts as Babe Paley. Photo / Hulu.

The premise: The second series of Ryan Murphy’s Feud anthology series, Capote vs the Swans details the juicy fallout that occurs between gossipy man about town Truman Capote (played by Tom Holland) and his high-society muses after he airs their dirty secrets in his 1975 Esquire article La Côte Basque, 1965.

The fashion: Lou Eyrich’s glamorous vintage costumes are integral to this New York and California set miniseries which spans the 1960s through to the 1980s. Amongst the actual tragedies of life, well-heeled socialites Lee Radziwill (played by Calista Flockhart); C.Z. Guest (Chloë Sevigny), Slim Keith (Diane Lane) and Babe Paley (Naomi Watts) spend their time long-lunching, luxuriating and grappling with the trauma of having their favourite glove style discontinued. 

Don’t miss the Zac Posen designed the gowns in episode three which captures the events leading up to and following Truman's now infamous 1966 Black and White Ball.

Where to watch it: Neon or Disney +

Ripley

Photo / Netflix

The premise: The mini series adaptation of Patricia Highsmith's novel stars Andrew Scott and Dakota Fanning, and was shot entirely in black and white. The story is well-known - Tom Ripley's descent into obsession - with the tension able to be drawn up slowly over eight incredible episodes.

The fashion: The Talented Mr. Ripley already had serious fashion credentials following the 1999 film, but this adaptation offers its own version of 1950s American in Italy chic. Because of the grayscale, costume designers Giovanni Casalnuovo and Maurizio Millenotti leaned on silhouette, texture and pattern to showcase character development and social status. Every frame is set up like an artwork, with the clothing a key element.

Where to watch: Netflix

READ MORE: Ensemble on TV

The lesbian renaissance and reality TV

Why Bridgerton's needle drops are perfection

Why do smart women watch ‘dumb’ TV?

Cristóbal Balenciaga

Cristóbal Balenciaga recerates some of the designers most recognisabel designs. Photo / Apple TV+.

The premise: Having left behind a successful career designing for the Spanish élite and aristocracy in Madrid and San Sebastian, Cristóbal Balenciaga arrives in Paris to present his first haute couture collection and finds it hard to break into the refined market dominated by the likes of Chanel, Dior and Givenchy . 

The fashion: Tár costume designer Bina Daigeler recreates some of Balenciaga’s most memorable designs in this six-part biographical drama set across the  1930s-1940s. Tracking the career trajectory and technical innovation of one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century.

Where to watch it: Disney +

Lady in the Lake 

Natalie Portman and Moses Ingram in Lady in the Lake. Photo / Apple TV+.

The Premise: Natalie Portman’s TV debut is garnering buzz as a visually and psychologically rich neo-noir that explores racial prejudice, sexual oppression and the interplay between them. The seven-episode adaptation of the 2019 bestselling thriller by Laura Lippman, expertly helmed by Alma Har’el, sees Portman play an aspiring reporter in 1960s Baltimore who becomes spellbound by the mystery surrounding two separate killings. 

The fashion: The shadowy visual style of the show was described in the Guardian as “an incredibly sumptuous and fearless aesthetic experience, combining not just the meticulous recreation of the 60s, but also of Cleo’s childhood in the 40s.” We added it to our playlist then and there. 

Where to watch it: Apple + 

Fantasmas

Aidy Bryant as a woman who fashions toilet dresses. Photo / HBO.

The premise: Spun from the curiously chaotic mind of Saturday Night Live favourite Julio Torres, Fantasmas is an equally kooky and introspective six episode comedy series that sees Torres search across a dreamlike New York for a lost gold oyster earring and connection. Come for the surrealist escapism, stay for the best Real Housewives Parody of all time (and multiple cameos from favourites including Bowen Yang, Julia Fox, Natasha Lyonne, Steve Buscemi, Ziwe and more).

The fashion: Saturated in colour, and featuring multiple skirt suits. The costuming is as outrageously offbeat as the characters and plotlines in this sprawling surrealist version of NYC. Torres’ playful makeup is of note, as well as Vanesja’s 80s-inspired skirt suits (look out for Alexa Demie’s appearance as an intense call centre worker, wearing her own vintage Galliano grey suit).

Where to watch it: Neon

Palm Royale 

One grasshopper please. Photo / Apple TV +.

The premise: In 1969, Maxine Simmons (Kristen Wiig) attempts to secure her seat at America’s most exclusive tables: that of Palm Beach’s bitchy high society. At 91, legendary cast member Carol Burnett recently made history becoming  the oldest female nominated for an acting Emmy Award for her portrayal of dowager and society gatekeeper Norma Dellacorte.

The fashion: The main attraction here are the vividly technicolour turbans, kaftans and shift dresses spun from the creative mind of costume designer Alix Friedberg, who also worked on Big Little Lies. Plus the many colourful grasshopper cocktails.

Where to watch it: Apple +

Hacks

The archive. The dress. Photo / HBO Max.

The premise: Jean Smart is spellbinding as Deborah Vance, a snarky, martini wielding stand-up who, in an effort to re-energise her flagging Las Vegas residency, finds herself in a terrifically contentious working relationship with a discontented younger comedy writer, played to perfection by Hannah Einbinder.

The fashion: Vance wants all eyes on her and her vivacious outfits reflect that. In sequin pantsuits, long duster coats, rhinestone encrusted Jimmy Choo heels and hair coiffed to the gods Jean Smart delivers Joan Rivers realness as the showy septuagenarian who knows exactly how to dress for the life of a lady of well-earned leisure. Viva la Vance. The latest season features her jaw dropping fashion archive in a desert warehouse, and an equally jaw dropping vintage black and yellow dress (from 1988, by the iconic Bill Blass).

Where to watch it: Season 3 is on TVNZ+

The Diplomat 

The Diplomat. Photo / Netflix.

The premise: US diplomat Kate Wyler (Kerri Russell) travels to the UK to deal with an international crisis. She brings with her a suitcase full of perfectly minimalist business chic attire that reads like a Pinterest board shrine to Meghan Markle’s style.

The fashion: Russell offers up a wardrobe of public service porn, a catalogue version of mid-heeled quiet luxury. Think: tailored silk shirts, well cut classics and sensible but stylish blazers all noteworthy in their nondescript-ness. A few standout dresses moments break provide pupil dilating moments, especially a red halterneck number from Galvan London.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season two screens from October 31)

Emily in Paris

Emily, and friend Mindy, in... Rome. Photo / Netflix

The premise: Lily Collins is Emily, a peppy young American marketing executive who lands her dream job in Paris and throws herself into the colourful spirit of the city of lights. New romances, friendships, and lessons in navigating cultural differences follow. Ashley Park, Camille Razat, Lucas Bravo, and Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu round out the cast dressed to the nines in every scene.

The fashion: This turbocharged version of Parisian panache is dopamine dressing at its most delightful – or ridiculous. Think bold uses colour, high octane accessories and playful touches from head to toe. Legendary Sex & the City costume designer Patricia Field decked out the first two seasons before handing the glitzy baton to Marylin Fitoussi, but the outfits have remained as dazzlingly daring.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season four was recently released)

Selling Sunset

Club or a workplace? Photo / Netflix

The premise: Following the interoffice politics of The Oppenheim Group against the backdrop of luxury real estate in Los Angeles, the show is now on its eighth season with more scandal, ostentatious wealth and ridiculousness than ever before.

The fashion: Is Selling Sunset stylish? Your answer will depend entirely on your personal tastes, but without a doubt the show is as much a fashion show as it is about actually selling houses. The outfits have become even more outlandish as the seasons have gone on, with the new season including one scene about what's deemed 'appropriate' workwear. You won't get an answer to that, but you will get lots of designer handbags, flashy logos and extremely high heels.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season eight was just released, with plenty of scandal and gossip...)

Not new, but worth a watch

The Sopranos

Edie Falco as Carmela Soprano. Photo / HBO.

The premise: Lauded for its wry writing, complex character studies and envelope pushing filmic techniques, this New Jersey set mafia family masterpiece is held up as one of the greatest television series of all time. For style sleuths, the glorious gaudiness Italian-American is just as influential.

The fashion: Get a lesson in 2024’s mob wife aesthetic from the doyennes of the demographic, Carmela Soprano. French tipped manicured nails, high volume hair-dos, lavishly lined lips and stacks on stacks of jewellery. Perfection.

Where to watch it: Neon

Benson & Hedges Fashion Design Awards 1986

Rachel Hunter in 1986. Photo / NZ On Screen.

The premise: Broadcast live on TVNZ from the Michael Fowler Centre, model agent Maysie Bestall-Cohen and Bob Parker present awards in what was then the pinnacle of competitive fashion achievement in Aotearoa. Former Miss Universe Lorraine Downes pops up as a guest presenter, and the modelling line up  features a teenage Rachel Hunter and future TV presententing stalwart Hilary Timmins. 

The fashion: Fitting for a spectacle sponsored by a tobacco company, this is unbridled 1980s excessiveness. As NZ On Screen says, “padded shoulders, geometric prints and garish colours date stamp the era.”

Where to watch it: NZ On Screen (part of the excellent NZ Fashion On Screen collection)

Creativity, evocative visual storytelling and good journalism come at a price. Support our work and join the Ensemble membership program
No items found.

From fashion focused factuals to lavish period pieces and full frilled escapism, these stylish shows are a sight for eyes.

New in 2024

Feud: Capote vs The Swans 

Naomi Watts as Babe Paley. Photo / Hulu.

The premise: The second series of Ryan Murphy’s Feud anthology series, Capote vs the Swans details the juicy fallout that occurs between gossipy man about town Truman Capote (played by Tom Holland) and his high-society muses after he airs their dirty secrets in his 1975 Esquire article La Côte Basque, 1965.

The fashion: Lou Eyrich’s glamorous vintage costumes are integral to this New York and California set miniseries which spans the 1960s through to the 1980s. Amongst the actual tragedies of life, well-heeled socialites Lee Radziwill (played by Calista Flockhart); C.Z. Guest (Chloë Sevigny), Slim Keith (Diane Lane) and Babe Paley (Naomi Watts) spend their time long-lunching, luxuriating and grappling with the trauma of having their favourite glove style discontinued. 

Don’t miss the Zac Posen designed the gowns in episode three which captures the events leading up to and following Truman's now infamous 1966 Black and White Ball.

Where to watch it: Neon or Disney +

Ripley

Photo / Netflix

The premise: The mini series adaptation of Patricia Highsmith's novel stars Andrew Scott and Dakota Fanning, and was shot entirely in black and white. The story is well-known - Tom Ripley's descent into obsession - with the tension able to be drawn up slowly over eight incredible episodes.

The fashion: The Talented Mr. Ripley already had serious fashion credentials following the 1999 film, but this adaptation offers its own version of 1950s American in Italy chic. Because of the grayscale, costume designers Giovanni Casalnuovo and Maurizio Millenotti leaned on silhouette, texture and pattern to showcase character development and social status. Every frame is set up like an artwork, with the clothing a key element.

Where to watch: Netflix

READ MORE: Ensemble on TV

The lesbian renaissance and reality TV

Why Bridgerton's needle drops are perfection

Why do smart women watch ‘dumb’ TV?

Cristóbal Balenciaga

Cristóbal Balenciaga recerates some of the designers most recognisabel designs. Photo / Apple TV+.

The premise: Having left behind a successful career designing for the Spanish élite and aristocracy in Madrid and San Sebastian, Cristóbal Balenciaga arrives in Paris to present his first haute couture collection and finds it hard to break into the refined market dominated by the likes of Chanel, Dior and Givenchy . 

The fashion: Tár costume designer Bina Daigeler recreates some of Balenciaga’s most memorable designs in this six-part biographical drama set across the  1930s-1940s. Tracking the career trajectory and technical innovation of one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century.

Where to watch it: Disney +

Lady in the Lake 

Natalie Portman and Moses Ingram in Lady in the Lake. Photo / Apple TV+.

The Premise: Natalie Portman’s TV debut is garnering buzz as a visually and psychologically rich neo-noir that explores racial prejudice, sexual oppression and the interplay between them. The seven-episode adaptation of the 2019 bestselling thriller by Laura Lippman, expertly helmed by Alma Har’el, sees Portman play an aspiring reporter in 1960s Baltimore who becomes spellbound by the mystery surrounding two separate killings. 

The fashion: The shadowy visual style of the show was described in the Guardian as “an incredibly sumptuous and fearless aesthetic experience, combining not just the meticulous recreation of the 60s, but also of Cleo’s childhood in the 40s.” We added it to our playlist then and there. 

Where to watch it: Apple + 

Fantasmas

Aidy Bryant as a woman who fashions toilet dresses. Photo / HBO.

The premise: Spun from the curiously chaotic mind of Saturday Night Live favourite Julio Torres, Fantasmas is an equally kooky and introspective six episode comedy series that sees Torres search across a dreamlike New York for a lost gold oyster earring and connection. Come for the surrealist escapism, stay for the best Real Housewives Parody of all time (and multiple cameos from favourites including Bowen Yang, Julia Fox, Natasha Lyonne, Steve Buscemi, Ziwe and more).

The fashion: Saturated in colour, and featuring multiple skirt suits. The costuming is as outrageously offbeat as the characters and plotlines in this sprawling surrealist version of NYC. Torres’ playful makeup is of note, as well as Vanesja’s 80s-inspired skirt suits (look out for Alexa Demie’s appearance as an intense call centre worker, wearing her own vintage Galliano grey suit).

Where to watch it: Neon

Palm Royale 

One grasshopper please. Photo / Apple TV +.

The premise: In 1969, Maxine Simmons (Kristen Wiig) attempts to secure her seat at America’s most exclusive tables: that of Palm Beach’s bitchy high society. At 91, legendary cast member Carol Burnett recently made history becoming  the oldest female nominated for an acting Emmy Award for her portrayal of dowager and society gatekeeper Norma Dellacorte.

The fashion: The main attraction here are the vividly technicolour turbans, kaftans and shift dresses spun from the creative mind of costume designer Alix Friedberg, who also worked on Big Little Lies. Plus the many colourful grasshopper cocktails.

Where to watch it: Apple +

Hacks

The archive. The dress. Photo / HBO Max.

The premise: Jean Smart is spellbinding as Deborah Vance, a snarky, martini wielding stand-up who, in an effort to re-energise her flagging Las Vegas residency, finds herself in a terrifically contentious working relationship with a discontented younger comedy writer, played to perfection by Hannah Einbinder.

The fashion: Vance wants all eyes on her and her vivacious outfits reflect that. In sequin pantsuits, long duster coats, rhinestone encrusted Jimmy Choo heels and hair coiffed to the gods Jean Smart delivers Joan Rivers realness as the showy septuagenarian who knows exactly how to dress for the life of a lady of well-earned leisure. Viva la Vance. The latest season features her jaw dropping fashion archive in a desert warehouse, and an equally jaw dropping vintage black and yellow dress (from 1988, by the iconic Bill Blass).

Where to watch it: Season 3 is on TVNZ+

The Diplomat 

The Diplomat. Photo / Netflix.

The premise: US diplomat Kate Wyler (Kerri Russell) travels to the UK to deal with an international crisis. She brings with her a suitcase full of perfectly minimalist business chic attire that reads like a Pinterest board shrine to Meghan Markle’s style.

The fashion: Russell offers up a wardrobe of public service porn, a catalogue version of mid-heeled quiet luxury. Think: tailored silk shirts, well cut classics and sensible but stylish blazers all noteworthy in their nondescript-ness. A few standout dresses moments break provide pupil dilating moments, especially a red halterneck number from Galvan London.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season two screens from October 31)

Emily in Paris

Emily, and friend Mindy, in... Rome. Photo / Netflix

The premise: Lily Collins is Emily, a peppy young American marketing executive who lands her dream job in Paris and throws herself into the colourful spirit of the city of lights. New romances, friendships, and lessons in navigating cultural differences follow. Ashley Park, Camille Razat, Lucas Bravo, and Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu round out the cast dressed to the nines in every scene.

The fashion: This turbocharged version of Parisian panache is dopamine dressing at its most delightful – or ridiculous. Think bold uses colour, high octane accessories and playful touches from head to toe. Legendary Sex & the City costume designer Patricia Field decked out the first two seasons before handing the glitzy baton to Marylin Fitoussi, but the outfits have remained as dazzlingly daring.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season four was recently released)

Selling Sunset

Club or a workplace? Photo / Netflix

The premise: Following the interoffice politics of The Oppenheim Group against the backdrop of luxury real estate in Los Angeles, the show is now on its eighth season with more scandal, ostentatious wealth and ridiculousness than ever before.

The fashion: Is Selling Sunset stylish? Your answer will depend entirely on your personal tastes, but without a doubt the show is as much a fashion show as it is about actually selling houses. The outfits have become even more outlandish as the seasons have gone on, with the new season including one scene about what's deemed 'appropriate' workwear. You won't get an answer to that, but you will get lots of designer handbags, flashy logos and extremely high heels.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season eight was just released, with plenty of scandal and gossip...)

Not new, but worth a watch

The Sopranos

Edie Falco as Carmela Soprano. Photo / HBO.

The premise: Lauded for its wry writing, complex character studies and envelope pushing filmic techniques, this New Jersey set mafia family masterpiece is held up as one of the greatest television series of all time. For style sleuths, the glorious gaudiness Italian-American is just as influential.

The fashion: Get a lesson in 2024’s mob wife aesthetic from the doyennes of the demographic, Carmela Soprano. French tipped manicured nails, high volume hair-dos, lavishly lined lips and stacks on stacks of jewellery. Perfection.

Where to watch it: Neon

Benson & Hedges Fashion Design Awards 1986

Rachel Hunter in 1986. Photo / NZ On Screen.

The premise: Broadcast live on TVNZ from the Michael Fowler Centre, model agent Maysie Bestall-Cohen and Bob Parker present awards in what was then the pinnacle of competitive fashion achievement in Aotearoa. Former Miss Universe Lorraine Downes pops up as a guest presenter, and the modelling line up  features a teenage Rachel Hunter and future TV presententing stalwart Hilary Timmins. 

The fashion: Fitting for a spectacle sponsored by a tobacco company, this is unbridled 1980s excessiveness. As NZ On Screen says, “padded shoulders, geometric prints and garish colours date stamp the era.”

Where to watch it: NZ On Screen (part of the excellent NZ Fashion On Screen collection)

Creativity, evocative visual storytelling and good journalism come at a price. Support our work and join the Ensemble membership program
No items found.

Fashion plays a leading role in these well-heeled TV shows

From fashion focused factuals to lavish period pieces and full frilled escapism, these stylish shows are a sight for eyes.

New in 2024

Feud: Capote vs The Swans 

Naomi Watts as Babe Paley. Photo / Hulu.

The premise: The second series of Ryan Murphy’s Feud anthology series, Capote vs the Swans details the juicy fallout that occurs between gossipy man about town Truman Capote (played by Tom Holland) and his high-society muses after he airs their dirty secrets in his 1975 Esquire article La Côte Basque, 1965.

The fashion: Lou Eyrich’s glamorous vintage costumes are integral to this New York and California set miniseries which spans the 1960s through to the 1980s. Amongst the actual tragedies of life, well-heeled socialites Lee Radziwill (played by Calista Flockhart); C.Z. Guest (Chloë Sevigny), Slim Keith (Diane Lane) and Babe Paley (Naomi Watts) spend their time long-lunching, luxuriating and grappling with the trauma of having their favourite glove style discontinued. 

Don’t miss the Zac Posen designed the gowns in episode three which captures the events leading up to and following Truman's now infamous 1966 Black and White Ball.

Where to watch it: Neon or Disney +

Ripley

Photo / Netflix

The premise: The mini series adaptation of Patricia Highsmith's novel stars Andrew Scott and Dakota Fanning, and was shot entirely in black and white. The story is well-known - Tom Ripley's descent into obsession - with the tension able to be drawn up slowly over eight incredible episodes.

The fashion: The Talented Mr. Ripley already had serious fashion credentials following the 1999 film, but this adaptation offers its own version of 1950s American in Italy chic. Because of the grayscale, costume designers Giovanni Casalnuovo and Maurizio Millenotti leaned on silhouette, texture and pattern to showcase character development and social status. Every frame is set up like an artwork, with the clothing a key element.

Where to watch: Netflix

READ MORE: Ensemble on TV

The lesbian renaissance and reality TV

Why Bridgerton's needle drops are perfection

Why do smart women watch ‘dumb’ TV?

Cristóbal Balenciaga

Cristóbal Balenciaga recerates some of the designers most recognisabel designs. Photo / Apple TV+.

The premise: Having left behind a successful career designing for the Spanish élite and aristocracy in Madrid and San Sebastian, Cristóbal Balenciaga arrives in Paris to present his first haute couture collection and finds it hard to break into the refined market dominated by the likes of Chanel, Dior and Givenchy . 

The fashion: Tár costume designer Bina Daigeler recreates some of Balenciaga’s most memorable designs in this six-part biographical drama set across the  1930s-1940s. Tracking the career trajectory and technical innovation of one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century.

Where to watch it: Disney +

Lady in the Lake 

Natalie Portman and Moses Ingram in Lady in the Lake. Photo / Apple TV+.

The Premise: Natalie Portman’s TV debut is garnering buzz as a visually and psychologically rich neo-noir that explores racial prejudice, sexual oppression and the interplay between them. The seven-episode adaptation of the 2019 bestselling thriller by Laura Lippman, expertly helmed by Alma Har’el, sees Portman play an aspiring reporter in 1960s Baltimore who becomes spellbound by the mystery surrounding two separate killings. 

The fashion: The shadowy visual style of the show was described in the Guardian as “an incredibly sumptuous and fearless aesthetic experience, combining not just the meticulous recreation of the 60s, but also of Cleo’s childhood in the 40s.” We added it to our playlist then and there. 

Where to watch it: Apple + 

Fantasmas

Aidy Bryant as a woman who fashions toilet dresses. Photo / HBO.

The premise: Spun from the curiously chaotic mind of Saturday Night Live favourite Julio Torres, Fantasmas is an equally kooky and introspective six episode comedy series that sees Torres search across a dreamlike New York for a lost gold oyster earring and connection. Come for the surrealist escapism, stay for the best Real Housewives Parody of all time (and multiple cameos from favourites including Bowen Yang, Julia Fox, Natasha Lyonne, Steve Buscemi, Ziwe and more).

The fashion: Saturated in colour, and featuring multiple skirt suits. The costuming is as outrageously offbeat as the characters and plotlines in this sprawling surrealist version of NYC. Torres’ playful makeup is of note, as well as Vanesja’s 80s-inspired skirt suits (look out for Alexa Demie’s appearance as an intense call centre worker, wearing her own vintage Galliano grey suit).

Where to watch it: Neon

Palm Royale 

One grasshopper please. Photo / Apple TV +.

The premise: In 1969, Maxine Simmons (Kristen Wiig) attempts to secure her seat at America’s most exclusive tables: that of Palm Beach’s bitchy high society. At 91, legendary cast member Carol Burnett recently made history becoming  the oldest female nominated for an acting Emmy Award for her portrayal of dowager and society gatekeeper Norma Dellacorte.

The fashion: The main attraction here are the vividly technicolour turbans, kaftans and shift dresses spun from the creative mind of costume designer Alix Friedberg, who also worked on Big Little Lies. Plus the many colourful grasshopper cocktails.

Where to watch it: Apple +

Hacks

The archive. The dress. Photo / HBO Max.

The premise: Jean Smart is spellbinding as Deborah Vance, a snarky, martini wielding stand-up who, in an effort to re-energise her flagging Las Vegas residency, finds herself in a terrifically contentious working relationship with a discontented younger comedy writer, played to perfection by Hannah Einbinder.

The fashion: Vance wants all eyes on her and her vivacious outfits reflect that. In sequin pantsuits, long duster coats, rhinestone encrusted Jimmy Choo heels and hair coiffed to the gods Jean Smart delivers Joan Rivers realness as the showy septuagenarian who knows exactly how to dress for the life of a lady of well-earned leisure. Viva la Vance. The latest season features her jaw dropping fashion archive in a desert warehouse, and an equally jaw dropping vintage black and yellow dress (from 1988, by the iconic Bill Blass).

Where to watch it: Season 3 is on TVNZ+

The Diplomat 

The Diplomat. Photo / Netflix.

The premise: US diplomat Kate Wyler (Kerri Russell) travels to the UK to deal with an international crisis. She brings with her a suitcase full of perfectly minimalist business chic attire that reads like a Pinterest board shrine to Meghan Markle’s style.

The fashion: Russell offers up a wardrobe of public service porn, a catalogue version of mid-heeled quiet luxury. Think: tailored silk shirts, well cut classics and sensible but stylish blazers all noteworthy in their nondescript-ness. A few standout dresses moments break provide pupil dilating moments, especially a red halterneck number from Galvan London.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season two screens from October 31)

Emily in Paris

Emily, and friend Mindy, in... Rome. Photo / Netflix

The premise: Lily Collins is Emily, a peppy young American marketing executive who lands her dream job in Paris and throws herself into the colourful spirit of the city of lights. New romances, friendships, and lessons in navigating cultural differences follow. Ashley Park, Camille Razat, Lucas Bravo, and Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu round out the cast dressed to the nines in every scene.

The fashion: This turbocharged version of Parisian panache is dopamine dressing at its most delightful – or ridiculous. Think bold uses colour, high octane accessories and playful touches from head to toe. Legendary Sex & the City costume designer Patricia Field decked out the first two seasons before handing the glitzy baton to Marylin Fitoussi, but the outfits have remained as dazzlingly daring.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season four was recently released)

Selling Sunset

Club or a workplace? Photo / Netflix

The premise: Following the interoffice politics of The Oppenheim Group against the backdrop of luxury real estate in Los Angeles, the show is now on its eighth season with more scandal, ostentatious wealth and ridiculousness than ever before.

The fashion: Is Selling Sunset stylish? Your answer will depend entirely on your personal tastes, but without a doubt the show is as much a fashion show as it is about actually selling houses. The outfits have become even more outlandish as the seasons have gone on, with the new season including one scene about what's deemed 'appropriate' workwear. You won't get an answer to that, but you will get lots of designer handbags, flashy logos and extremely high heels.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season eight was just released, with plenty of scandal and gossip...)

Not new, but worth a watch

The Sopranos

Edie Falco as Carmela Soprano. Photo / HBO.

The premise: Lauded for its wry writing, complex character studies and envelope pushing filmic techniques, this New Jersey set mafia family masterpiece is held up as one of the greatest television series of all time. For style sleuths, the glorious gaudiness Italian-American is just as influential.

The fashion: Get a lesson in 2024’s mob wife aesthetic from the doyennes of the demographic, Carmela Soprano. French tipped manicured nails, high volume hair-dos, lavishly lined lips and stacks on stacks of jewellery. Perfection.

Where to watch it: Neon

Benson & Hedges Fashion Design Awards 1986

Rachel Hunter in 1986. Photo / NZ On Screen.

The premise: Broadcast live on TVNZ from the Michael Fowler Centre, model agent Maysie Bestall-Cohen and Bob Parker present awards in what was then the pinnacle of competitive fashion achievement in Aotearoa. Former Miss Universe Lorraine Downes pops up as a guest presenter, and the modelling line up  features a teenage Rachel Hunter and future TV presententing stalwart Hilary Timmins. 

The fashion: Fitting for a spectacle sponsored by a tobacco company, this is unbridled 1980s excessiveness. As NZ On Screen says, “padded shoulders, geometric prints and garish colours date stamp the era.”

Where to watch it: NZ On Screen (part of the excellent NZ Fashion On Screen collection)

No items found.
Creativity, evocative visual storytelling and good journalism come at a price. Support our work and join the Ensemble membership program

Fashion plays a leading role in these well-heeled TV shows

From fashion focused factuals to lavish period pieces and full frilled escapism, these stylish shows are a sight for eyes.

New in 2024

Feud: Capote vs The Swans 

Naomi Watts as Babe Paley. Photo / Hulu.

The premise: The second series of Ryan Murphy’s Feud anthology series, Capote vs the Swans details the juicy fallout that occurs between gossipy man about town Truman Capote (played by Tom Holland) and his high-society muses after he airs their dirty secrets in his 1975 Esquire article La Côte Basque, 1965.

The fashion: Lou Eyrich’s glamorous vintage costumes are integral to this New York and California set miniseries which spans the 1960s through to the 1980s. Amongst the actual tragedies of life, well-heeled socialites Lee Radziwill (played by Calista Flockhart); C.Z. Guest (Chloë Sevigny), Slim Keith (Diane Lane) and Babe Paley (Naomi Watts) spend their time long-lunching, luxuriating and grappling with the trauma of having their favourite glove style discontinued. 

Don’t miss the Zac Posen designed the gowns in episode three which captures the events leading up to and following Truman's now infamous 1966 Black and White Ball.

Where to watch it: Neon or Disney +

Ripley

Photo / Netflix

The premise: The mini series adaptation of Patricia Highsmith's novel stars Andrew Scott and Dakota Fanning, and was shot entirely in black and white. The story is well-known - Tom Ripley's descent into obsession - with the tension able to be drawn up slowly over eight incredible episodes.

The fashion: The Talented Mr. Ripley already had serious fashion credentials following the 1999 film, but this adaptation offers its own version of 1950s American in Italy chic. Because of the grayscale, costume designers Giovanni Casalnuovo and Maurizio Millenotti leaned on silhouette, texture and pattern to showcase character development and social status. Every frame is set up like an artwork, with the clothing a key element.

Where to watch: Netflix

READ MORE: Ensemble on TV

The lesbian renaissance and reality TV

Why Bridgerton's needle drops are perfection

Why do smart women watch ‘dumb’ TV?

Cristóbal Balenciaga

Cristóbal Balenciaga recerates some of the designers most recognisabel designs. Photo / Apple TV+.

The premise: Having left behind a successful career designing for the Spanish élite and aristocracy in Madrid and San Sebastian, Cristóbal Balenciaga arrives in Paris to present his first haute couture collection and finds it hard to break into the refined market dominated by the likes of Chanel, Dior and Givenchy . 

The fashion: Tár costume designer Bina Daigeler recreates some of Balenciaga’s most memorable designs in this six-part biographical drama set across the  1930s-1940s. Tracking the career trajectory and technical innovation of one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century.

Where to watch it: Disney +

Lady in the Lake 

Natalie Portman and Moses Ingram in Lady in the Lake. Photo / Apple TV+.

The Premise: Natalie Portman’s TV debut is garnering buzz as a visually and psychologically rich neo-noir that explores racial prejudice, sexual oppression and the interplay between them. The seven-episode adaptation of the 2019 bestselling thriller by Laura Lippman, expertly helmed by Alma Har’el, sees Portman play an aspiring reporter in 1960s Baltimore who becomes spellbound by the mystery surrounding two separate killings. 

The fashion: The shadowy visual style of the show was described in the Guardian as “an incredibly sumptuous and fearless aesthetic experience, combining not just the meticulous recreation of the 60s, but also of Cleo’s childhood in the 40s.” We added it to our playlist then and there. 

Where to watch it: Apple + 

Fantasmas

Aidy Bryant as a woman who fashions toilet dresses. Photo / HBO.

The premise: Spun from the curiously chaotic mind of Saturday Night Live favourite Julio Torres, Fantasmas is an equally kooky and introspective six episode comedy series that sees Torres search across a dreamlike New York for a lost gold oyster earring and connection. Come for the surrealist escapism, stay for the best Real Housewives Parody of all time (and multiple cameos from favourites including Bowen Yang, Julia Fox, Natasha Lyonne, Steve Buscemi, Ziwe and more).

The fashion: Saturated in colour, and featuring multiple skirt suits. The costuming is as outrageously offbeat as the characters and plotlines in this sprawling surrealist version of NYC. Torres’ playful makeup is of note, as well as Vanesja’s 80s-inspired skirt suits (look out for Alexa Demie’s appearance as an intense call centre worker, wearing her own vintage Galliano grey suit).

Where to watch it: Neon

Palm Royale 

One grasshopper please. Photo / Apple TV +.

The premise: In 1969, Maxine Simmons (Kristen Wiig) attempts to secure her seat at America’s most exclusive tables: that of Palm Beach’s bitchy high society. At 91, legendary cast member Carol Burnett recently made history becoming  the oldest female nominated for an acting Emmy Award for her portrayal of dowager and society gatekeeper Norma Dellacorte.

The fashion: The main attraction here are the vividly technicolour turbans, kaftans and shift dresses spun from the creative mind of costume designer Alix Friedberg, who also worked on Big Little Lies. Plus the many colourful grasshopper cocktails.

Where to watch it: Apple +

Hacks

The archive. The dress. Photo / HBO Max.

The premise: Jean Smart is spellbinding as Deborah Vance, a snarky, martini wielding stand-up who, in an effort to re-energise her flagging Las Vegas residency, finds herself in a terrifically contentious working relationship with a discontented younger comedy writer, played to perfection by Hannah Einbinder.

The fashion: Vance wants all eyes on her and her vivacious outfits reflect that. In sequin pantsuits, long duster coats, rhinestone encrusted Jimmy Choo heels and hair coiffed to the gods Jean Smart delivers Joan Rivers realness as the showy septuagenarian who knows exactly how to dress for the life of a lady of well-earned leisure. Viva la Vance. The latest season features her jaw dropping fashion archive in a desert warehouse, and an equally jaw dropping vintage black and yellow dress (from 1988, by the iconic Bill Blass).

Where to watch it: Season 3 is on TVNZ+

The Diplomat 

The Diplomat. Photo / Netflix.

The premise: US diplomat Kate Wyler (Kerri Russell) travels to the UK to deal with an international crisis. She brings with her a suitcase full of perfectly minimalist business chic attire that reads like a Pinterest board shrine to Meghan Markle’s style.

The fashion: Russell offers up a wardrobe of public service porn, a catalogue version of mid-heeled quiet luxury. Think: tailored silk shirts, well cut classics and sensible but stylish blazers all noteworthy in their nondescript-ness. A few standout dresses moments break provide pupil dilating moments, especially a red halterneck number from Galvan London.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season two screens from October 31)

Emily in Paris

Emily, and friend Mindy, in... Rome. Photo / Netflix

The premise: Lily Collins is Emily, a peppy young American marketing executive who lands her dream job in Paris and throws herself into the colourful spirit of the city of lights. New romances, friendships, and lessons in navigating cultural differences follow. Ashley Park, Camille Razat, Lucas Bravo, and Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu round out the cast dressed to the nines in every scene.

The fashion: This turbocharged version of Parisian panache is dopamine dressing at its most delightful – or ridiculous. Think bold uses colour, high octane accessories and playful touches from head to toe. Legendary Sex & the City costume designer Patricia Field decked out the first two seasons before handing the glitzy baton to Marylin Fitoussi, but the outfits have remained as dazzlingly daring.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season four was recently released)

Selling Sunset

Club or a workplace? Photo / Netflix

The premise: Following the interoffice politics of The Oppenheim Group against the backdrop of luxury real estate in Los Angeles, the show is now on its eighth season with more scandal, ostentatious wealth and ridiculousness than ever before.

The fashion: Is Selling Sunset stylish? Your answer will depend entirely on your personal tastes, but without a doubt the show is as much a fashion show as it is about actually selling houses. The outfits have become even more outlandish as the seasons have gone on, with the new season including one scene about what's deemed 'appropriate' workwear. You won't get an answer to that, but you will get lots of designer handbags, flashy logos and extremely high heels.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season eight was just released, with plenty of scandal and gossip...)

Not new, but worth a watch

The Sopranos

Edie Falco as Carmela Soprano. Photo / HBO.

The premise: Lauded for its wry writing, complex character studies and envelope pushing filmic techniques, this New Jersey set mafia family masterpiece is held up as one of the greatest television series of all time. For style sleuths, the glorious gaudiness Italian-American is just as influential.

The fashion: Get a lesson in 2024’s mob wife aesthetic from the doyennes of the demographic, Carmela Soprano. French tipped manicured nails, high volume hair-dos, lavishly lined lips and stacks on stacks of jewellery. Perfection.

Where to watch it: Neon

Benson & Hedges Fashion Design Awards 1986

Rachel Hunter in 1986. Photo / NZ On Screen.

The premise: Broadcast live on TVNZ from the Michael Fowler Centre, model agent Maysie Bestall-Cohen and Bob Parker present awards in what was then the pinnacle of competitive fashion achievement in Aotearoa. Former Miss Universe Lorraine Downes pops up as a guest presenter, and the modelling line up  features a teenage Rachel Hunter and future TV presententing stalwart Hilary Timmins. 

The fashion: Fitting for a spectacle sponsored by a tobacco company, this is unbridled 1980s excessiveness. As NZ On Screen says, “padded shoulders, geometric prints and garish colours date stamp the era.”

Where to watch it: NZ On Screen (part of the excellent NZ Fashion On Screen collection)

Creativity, evocative visual storytelling and good journalism come at a price. Support our work and join the Ensemble membership program
No items found.

From fashion focused factuals to lavish period pieces and full frilled escapism, these stylish shows are a sight for eyes.

New in 2024

Feud: Capote vs The Swans 

Naomi Watts as Babe Paley. Photo / Hulu.

The premise: The second series of Ryan Murphy’s Feud anthology series, Capote vs the Swans details the juicy fallout that occurs between gossipy man about town Truman Capote (played by Tom Holland) and his high-society muses after he airs their dirty secrets in his 1975 Esquire article La Côte Basque, 1965.

The fashion: Lou Eyrich’s glamorous vintage costumes are integral to this New York and California set miniseries which spans the 1960s through to the 1980s. Amongst the actual tragedies of life, well-heeled socialites Lee Radziwill (played by Calista Flockhart); C.Z. Guest (Chloë Sevigny), Slim Keith (Diane Lane) and Babe Paley (Naomi Watts) spend their time long-lunching, luxuriating and grappling with the trauma of having their favourite glove style discontinued. 

Don’t miss the Zac Posen designed the gowns in episode three which captures the events leading up to and following Truman's now infamous 1966 Black and White Ball.

Where to watch it: Neon or Disney +

Ripley

Photo / Netflix

The premise: The mini series adaptation of Patricia Highsmith's novel stars Andrew Scott and Dakota Fanning, and was shot entirely in black and white. The story is well-known - Tom Ripley's descent into obsession - with the tension able to be drawn up slowly over eight incredible episodes.

The fashion: The Talented Mr. Ripley already had serious fashion credentials following the 1999 film, but this adaptation offers its own version of 1950s American in Italy chic. Because of the grayscale, costume designers Giovanni Casalnuovo and Maurizio Millenotti leaned on silhouette, texture and pattern to showcase character development and social status. Every frame is set up like an artwork, with the clothing a key element.

Where to watch: Netflix

READ MORE: Ensemble on TV

The lesbian renaissance and reality TV

Why Bridgerton's needle drops are perfection

Why do smart women watch ‘dumb’ TV?

Cristóbal Balenciaga

Cristóbal Balenciaga recerates some of the designers most recognisabel designs. Photo / Apple TV+.

The premise: Having left behind a successful career designing for the Spanish élite and aristocracy in Madrid and San Sebastian, Cristóbal Balenciaga arrives in Paris to present his first haute couture collection and finds it hard to break into the refined market dominated by the likes of Chanel, Dior and Givenchy . 

The fashion: Tár costume designer Bina Daigeler recreates some of Balenciaga’s most memorable designs in this six-part biographical drama set across the  1930s-1940s. Tracking the career trajectory and technical innovation of one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century.

Where to watch it: Disney +

Lady in the Lake 

Natalie Portman and Moses Ingram in Lady in the Lake. Photo / Apple TV+.

The Premise: Natalie Portman’s TV debut is garnering buzz as a visually and psychologically rich neo-noir that explores racial prejudice, sexual oppression and the interplay between them. The seven-episode adaptation of the 2019 bestselling thriller by Laura Lippman, expertly helmed by Alma Har’el, sees Portman play an aspiring reporter in 1960s Baltimore who becomes spellbound by the mystery surrounding two separate killings. 

The fashion: The shadowy visual style of the show was described in the Guardian as “an incredibly sumptuous and fearless aesthetic experience, combining not just the meticulous recreation of the 60s, but also of Cleo’s childhood in the 40s.” We added it to our playlist then and there. 

Where to watch it: Apple + 

Fantasmas

Aidy Bryant as a woman who fashions toilet dresses. Photo / HBO.

The premise: Spun from the curiously chaotic mind of Saturday Night Live favourite Julio Torres, Fantasmas is an equally kooky and introspective six episode comedy series that sees Torres search across a dreamlike New York for a lost gold oyster earring and connection. Come for the surrealist escapism, stay for the best Real Housewives Parody of all time (and multiple cameos from favourites including Bowen Yang, Julia Fox, Natasha Lyonne, Steve Buscemi, Ziwe and more).

The fashion: Saturated in colour, and featuring multiple skirt suits. The costuming is as outrageously offbeat as the characters and plotlines in this sprawling surrealist version of NYC. Torres’ playful makeup is of note, as well as Vanesja’s 80s-inspired skirt suits (look out for Alexa Demie’s appearance as an intense call centre worker, wearing her own vintage Galliano grey suit).

Where to watch it: Neon

Palm Royale 

One grasshopper please. Photo / Apple TV +.

The premise: In 1969, Maxine Simmons (Kristen Wiig) attempts to secure her seat at America’s most exclusive tables: that of Palm Beach’s bitchy high society. At 91, legendary cast member Carol Burnett recently made history becoming  the oldest female nominated for an acting Emmy Award for her portrayal of dowager and society gatekeeper Norma Dellacorte.

The fashion: The main attraction here are the vividly technicolour turbans, kaftans and shift dresses spun from the creative mind of costume designer Alix Friedberg, who also worked on Big Little Lies. Plus the many colourful grasshopper cocktails.

Where to watch it: Apple +

Hacks

The archive. The dress. Photo / HBO Max.

The premise: Jean Smart is spellbinding as Deborah Vance, a snarky, martini wielding stand-up who, in an effort to re-energise her flagging Las Vegas residency, finds herself in a terrifically contentious working relationship with a discontented younger comedy writer, played to perfection by Hannah Einbinder.

The fashion: Vance wants all eyes on her and her vivacious outfits reflect that. In sequin pantsuits, long duster coats, rhinestone encrusted Jimmy Choo heels and hair coiffed to the gods Jean Smart delivers Joan Rivers realness as the showy septuagenarian who knows exactly how to dress for the life of a lady of well-earned leisure. Viva la Vance. The latest season features her jaw dropping fashion archive in a desert warehouse, and an equally jaw dropping vintage black and yellow dress (from 1988, by the iconic Bill Blass).

Where to watch it: Season 3 is on TVNZ+

The Diplomat 

The Diplomat. Photo / Netflix.

The premise: US diplomat Kate Wyler (Kerri Russell) travels to the UK to deal with an international crisis. She brings with her a suitcase full of perfectly minimalist business chic attire that reads like a Pinterest board shrine to Meghan Markle’s style.

The fashion: Russell offers up a wardrobe of public service porn, a catalogue version of mid-heeled quiet luxury. Think: tailored silk shirts, well cut classics and sensible but stylish blazers all noteworthy in their nondescript-ness. A few standout dresses moments break provide pupil dilating moments, especially a red halterneck number from Galvan London.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season two screens from October 31)

Emily in Paris

Emily, and friend Mindy, in... Rome. Photo / Netflix

The premise: Lily Collins is Emily, a peppy young American marketing executive who lands her dream job in Paris and throws herself into the colourful spirit of the city of lights. New romances, friendships, and lessons in navigating cultural differences follow. Ashley Park, Camille Razat, Lucas Bravo, and Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu round out the cast dressed to the nines in every scene.

The fashion: This turbocharged version of Parisian panache is dopamine dressing at its most delightful – or ridiculous. Think bold uses colour, high octane accessories and playful touches from head to toe. Legendary Sex & the City costume designer Patricia Field decked out the first two seasons before handing the glitzy baton to Marylin Fitoussi, but the outfits have remained as dazzlingly daring.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season four was recently released)

Selling Sunset

Club or a workplace? Photo / Netflix

The premise: Following the interoffice politics of The Oppenheim Group against the backdrop of luxury real estate in Los Angeles, the show is now on its eighth season with more scandal, ostentatious wealth and ridiculousness than ever before.

The fashion: Is Selling Sunset stylish? Your answer will depend entirely on your personal tastes, but without a doubt the show is as much a fashion show as it is about actually selling houses. The outfits have become even more outlandish as the seasons have gone on, with the new season including one scene about what's deemed 'appropriate' workwear. You won't get an answer to that, but you will get lots of designer handbags, flashy logos and extremely high heels.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season eight was just released, with plenty of scandal and gossip...)

Not new, but worth a watch

The Sopranos

Edie Falco as Carmela Soprano. Photo / HBO.

The premise: Lauded for its wry writing, complex character studies and envelope pushing filmic techniques, this New Jersey set mafia family masterpiece is held up as one of the greatest television series of all time. For style sleuths, the glorious gaudiness Italian-American is just as influential.

The fashion: Get a lesson in 2024’s mob wife aesthetic from the doyennes of the demographic, Carmela Soprano. French tipped manicured nails, high volume hair-dos, lavishly lined lips and stacks on stacks of jewellery. Perfection.

Where to watch it: Neon

Benson & Hedges Fashion Design Awards 1986

Rachel Hunter in 1986. Photo / NZ On Screen.

The premise: Broadcast live on TVNZ from the Michael Fowler Centre, model agent Maysie Bestall-Cohen and Bob Parker present awards in what was then the pinnacle of competitive fashion achievement in Aotearoa. Former Miss Universe Lorraine Downes pops up as a guest presenter, and the modelling line up  features a teenage Rachel Hunter and future TV presententing stalwart Hilary Timmins. 

The fashion: Fitting for a spectacle sponsored by a tobacco company, this is unbridled 1980s excessiveness. As NZ On Screen says, “padded shoulders, geometric prints and garish colours date stamp the era.”

Where to watch it: NZ On Screen (part of the excellent NZ Fashion On Screen collection)

No items found.
Creativity, evocative visual storytelling and good journalism come at a price. Support our work and join the Ensemble membership program

Fashion plays a leading role in these well-heeled TV shows

From fashion focused factuals to lavish period pieces and full frilled escapism, these stylish shows are a sight for eyes.

New in 2024

Feud: Capote vs The Swans 

Naomi Watts as Babe Paley. Photo / Hulu.

The premise: The second series of Ryan Murphy’s Feud anthology series, Capote vs the Swans details the juicy fallout that occurs between gossipy man about town Truman Capote (played by Tom Holland) and his high-society muses after he airs their dirty secrets in his 1975 Esquire article La Côte Basque, 1965.

The fashion: Lou Eyrich’s glamorous vintage costumes are integral to this New York and California set miniseries which spans the 1960s through to the 1980s. Amongst the actual tragedies of life, well-heeled socialites Lee Radziwill (played by Calista Flockhart); C.Z. Guest (Chloë Sevigny), Slim Keith (Diane Lane) and Babe Paley (Naomi Watts) spend their time long-lunching, luxuriating and grappling with the trauma of having their favourite glove style discontinued. 

Don’t miss the Zac Posen designed the gowns in episode three which captures the events leading up to and following Truman's now infamous 1966 Black and White Ball.

Where to watch it: Neon or Disney +

Ripley

Photo / Netflix

The premise: The mini series adaptation of Patricia Highsmith's novel stars Andrew Scott and Dakota Fanning, and was shot entirely in black and white. The story is well-known - Tom Ripley's descent into obsession - with the tension able to be drawn up slowly over eight incredible episodes.

The fashion: The Talented Mr. Ripley already had serious fashion credentials following the 1999 film, but this adaptation offers its own version of 1950s American in Italy chic. Because of the grayscale, costume designers Giovanni Casalnuovo and Maurizio Millenotti leaned on silhouette, texture and pattern to showcase character development and social status. Every frame is set up like an artwork, with the clothing a key element.

Where to watch: Netflix

READ MORE: Ensemble on TV

The lesbian renaissance and reality TV

Why Bridgerton's needle drops are perfection

Why do smart women watch ‘dumb’ TV?

Cristóbal Balenciaga

Cristóbal Balenciaga recerates some of the designers most recognisabel designs. Photo / Apple TV+.

The premise: Having left behind a successful career designing for the Spanish élite and aristocracy in Madrid and San Sebastian, Cristóbal Balenciaga arrives in Paris to present his first haute couture collection and finds it hard to break into the refined market dominated by the likes of Chanel, Dior and Givenchy . 

The fashion: Tár costume designer Bina Daigeler recreates some of Balenciaga’s most memorable designs in this six-part biographical drama set across the  1930s-1940s. Tracking the career trajectory and technical innovation of one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th century.

Where to watch it: Disney +

Lady in the Lake 

Natalie Portman and Moses Ingram in Lady in the Lake. Photo / Apple TV+.

The Premise: Natalie Portman’s TV debut is garnering buzz as a visually and psychologically rich neo-noir that explores racial prejudice, sexual oppression and the interplay between them. The seven-episode adaptation of the 2019 bestselling thriller by Laura Lippman, expertly helmed by Alma Har’el, sees Portman play an aspiring reporter in 1960s Baltimore who becomes spellbound by the mystery surrounding two separate killings. 

The fashion: The shadowy visual style of the show was described in the Guardian as “an incredibly sumptuous and fearless aesthetic experience, combining not just the meticulous recreation of the 60s, but also of Cleo’s childhood in the 40s.” We added it to our playlist then and there. 

Where to watch it: Apple + 

Fantasmas

Aidy Bryant as a woman who fashions toilet dresses. Photo / HBO.

The premise: Spun from the curiously chaotic mind of Saturday Night Live favourite Julio Torres, Fantasmas is an equally kooky and introspective six episode comedy series that sees Torres search across a dreamlike New York for a lost gold oyster earring and connection. Come for the surrealist escapism, stay for the best Real Housewives Parody of all time (and multiple cameos from favourites including Bowen Yang, Julia Fox, Natasha Lyonne, Steve Buscemi, Ziwe and more).

The fashion: Saturated in colour, and featuring multiple skirt suits. The costuming is as outrageously offbeat as the characters and plotlines in this sprawling surrealist version of NYC. Torres’ playful makeup is of note, as well as Vanesja’s 80s-inspired skirt suits (look out for Alexa Demie’s appearance as an intense call centre worker, wearing her own vintage Galliano grey suit).

Where to watch it: Neon

Palm Royale 

One grasshopper please. Photo / Apple TV +.

The premise: In 1969, Maxine Simmons (Kristen Wiig) attempts to secure her seat at America’s most exclusive tables: that of Palm Beach’s bitchy high society. At 91, legendary cast member Carol Burnett recently made history becoming  the oldest female nominated for an acting Emmy Award for her portrayal of dowager and society gatekeeper Norma Dellacorte.

The fashion: The main attraction here are the vividly technicolour turbans, kaftans and shift dresses spun from the creative mind of costume designer Alix Friedberg, who also worked on Big Little Lies. Plus the many colourful grasshopper cocktails.

Where to watch it: Apple +

Hacks

The archive. The dress. Photo / HBO Max.

The premise: Jean Smart is spellbinding as Deborah Vance, a snarky, martini wielding stand-up who, in an effort to re-energise her flagging Las Vegas residency, finds herself in a terrifically contentious working relationship with a discontented younger comedy writer, played to perfection by Hannah Einbinder.

The fashion: Vance wants all eyes on her and her vivacious outfits reflect that. In sequin pantsuits, long duster coats, rhinestone encrusted Jimmy Choo heels and hair coiffed to the gods Jean Smart delivers Joan Rivers realness as the showy septuagenarian who knows exactly how to dress for the life of a lady of well-earned leisure. Viva la Vance. The latest season features her jaw dropping fashion archive in a desert warehouse, and an equally jaw dropping vintage black and yellow dress (from 1988, by the iconic Bill Blass).

Where to watch it: Season 3 is on TVNZ+

The Diplomat 

The Diplomat. Photo / Netflix.

The premise: US diplomat Kate Wyler (Kerri Russell) travels to the UK to deal with an international crisis. She brings with her a suitcase full of perfectly minimalist business chic attire that reads like a Pinterest board shrine to Meghan Markle’s style.

The fashion: Russell offers up a wardrobe of public service porn, a catalogue version of mid-heeled quiet luxury. Think: tailored silk shirts, well cut classics and sensible but stylish blazers all noteworthy in their nondescript-ness. A few standout dresses moments break provide pupil dilating moments, especially a red halterneck number from Galvan London.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season two screens from October 31)

Emily in Paris

Emily, and friend Mindy, in... Rome. Photo / Netflix

The premise: Lily Collins is Emily, a peppy young American marketing executive who lands her dream job in Paris and throws herself into the colourful spirit of the city of lights. New romances, friendships, and lessons in navigating cultural differences follow. Ashley Park, Camille Razat, Lucas Bravo, and Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu round out the cast dressed to the nines in every scene.

The fashion: This turbocharged version of Parisian panache is dopamine dressing at its most delightful – or ridiculous. Think bold uses colour, high octane accessories and playful touches from head to toe. Legendary Sex & the City costume designer Patricia Field decked out the first two seasons before handing the glitzy baton to Marylin Fitoussi, but the outfits have remained as dazzlingly daring.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season four was recently released)

Selling Sunset

Club or a workplace? Photo / Netflix

The premise: Following the interoffice politics of The Oppenheim Group against the backdrop of luxury real estate in Los Angeles, the show is now on its eighth season with more scandal, ostentatious wealth and ridiculousness than ever before.

The fashion: Is Selling Sunset stylish? Your answer will depend entirely on your personal tastes, but without a doubt the show is as much a fashion show as it is about actually selling houses. The outfits have become even more outlandish as the seasons have gone on, with the new season including one scene about what's deemed 'appropriate' workwear. You won't get an answer to that, but you will get lots of designer handbags, flashy logos and extremely high heels.

Where to watch it: Netflix (season eight was just released, with plenty of scandal and gossip...)

Not new, but worth a watch

The Sopranos

Edie Falco as Carmela Soprano. Photo / HBO.

The premise: Lauded for its wry writing, complex character studies and envelope pushing filmic techniques, this New Jersey set mafia family masterpiece is held up as one of the greatest television series of all time. For style sleuths, the glorious gaudiness Italian-American is just as influential.

The fashion: Get a lesson in 2024’s mob wife aesthetic from the doyennes of the demographic, Carmela Soprano. French tipped manicured nails, high volume hair-dos, lavishly lined lips and stacks on stacks of jewellery. Perfection.

Where to watch it: Neon

Benson & Hedges Fashion Design Awards 1986

Rachel Hunter in 1986. Photo / NZ On Screen.

The premise: Broadcast live on TVNZ from the Michael Fowler Centre, model agent Maysie Bestall-Cohen and Bob Parker present awards in what was then the pinnacle of competitive fashion achievement in Aotearoa. Former Miss Universe Lorraine Downes pops up as a guest presenter, and the modelling line up  features a teenage Rachel Hunter and future TV presententing stalwart Hilary Timmins. 

The fashion: Fitting for a spectacle sponsored by a tobacco company, this is unbridled 1980s excessiveness. As NZ On Screen says, “padded shoulders, geometric prints and garish colours date stamp the era.”

Where to watch it: NZ On Screen (part of the excellent NZ Fashion On Screen collection)

Creativity, evocative visual storytelling and good journalism come at a price. Support our work and join the Ensemble membership program
No items found.