This story is part of the Stuff Festival of Fashion, presented by Samsung, and was originally published on Stuff
The fun side of fashion is all about creativity, the thrill of the new, self-expression and craft - but there’s a dark side too. Globally, the fashion industry - mostly fast fashion - has fed an almost insatiable demand for brand new things, with textile waste clogging up landfill.
The Business of Fashion reported in 2021 that the global fashion industry is responsible for around 40 million tonnes of textile waste a year, a shocking figure and reminder of the wider impact of our shopping habits.
With that in mind, we wanted to ask a few stylish locals about the treasured clothing items that they have in their wardrobes - to prove that new isn’t always better.
Zoe Walker Ahwa, Stuff style editor and Ensemble co-founder
From a traditional fashion point of view most of my wardrobe is 'old'. As a fashion editor I'm very lucky to have and often shop early previews of new designer collections before they arrive in stores, but I also hold onto the things that I buy; putting them in storage then revisiting and re-wearing years later. 'Shopping your wardrobe' is the best and I wish more people would do it.
But the oldest item in there is probably a very mini, blue printed dress by El Jay, the brand from Gus Fisher that had the licence for Christian Dior in NZ from the 1905s to 80s. I think this dress is probably from the 1980s - the print and style is very '80s vibes.
It's far too short for me to wear now, but it's a piece of NZ fashion history and I will keep it forever.
Allister Tran, stylist and digital designer
A yellow wool jumper made in Scotland that was part of the ‘Royal West Norfolk’ golf club uniform. I have no idea what that means, but it’s my favourite piece that I've thrifted. Although a vintage treasure from the 1960s/1970s, it still feels so soft and the greatest of quality to this day.
I found it at Search & Destroy way back when it was still on Cross Street in Auckland and when thrifting was actually affordable.
An ex-lover actually introduced me to the store and I have since adopted as my own find and taken custody. I’m only joking but it has a long history, I’ve worn it to pretty much everything and anything, even starring in a global campaign. A lifetime piece for sure.
Gee Pikinga, makeup artist and NZ makeup director for Maybelline NY
One of the oldest things I own is a jacket that was made for me by Nana Mere Te Anau in the year 2000, for my Year 12 school ball. It's made of a beautiful Chinese brocade that I sourced from a fabric store in Pukekohe, David Mills.
I remember their more expensive, usually sourced from overseas fabrics adorned the shelves at the very back of the store, and 16-year-old me was adamant that I was going to wear the dopest jacket made from only that best that I could get my hands on. The padded shoulders still make me feel like a boss, 21 years later.
Kelly Thompson, illustrator and founder of Makers Market
The item in my wardrobe that I've held onto the longest was inherited from one of my mum's friends, an English woman named Amanda who would visit once a year from London.
I first met Amanda when I was at primary school, she was married to a man named Mike, wore hats and jewellery and I thought she was most glamourous. One year she returned without Mike, but with a wife and she left me her first wedding dress for my dress-up box. A silk square-neck singlet with fine straps and matching cascading poufy silk skirt. Mum was smart enough to remove them from the dress-up box, and I now wear the singlet with pants, occasionally trying on the skirt for fun.
Jessica Jay, founder of Reparation Studio
My Grandma’s debutante dress. It’s the most divine 1950s ball gown, and fits me perfectly, however I am yet to have an occasion to wear a (very formal) white dress! Regardless, this is an item I will treasure forever.
Tyson Beckett, Ensemble/Stuff style reporter
I am a shocker for cherry-picking my family's wardrobes. By far the oldest and most sentimental thing in 'our' wardrobes is a T-shirt my Mum got at Disneyland in 1982 during Grad Nite (an evening when local high school seniors from around California got the park to themselves).
Four decades on from purchase the tee is very faded but extremely soft (read, threadbare). It's not decent enough for outdoor wear anymore, but I still pull it on at home now and then when I want to wear something that feels like a hug.
Angela Sloan-Treadaway, designer/maker and founder of Sloan
A kid’s denim jacket. I’ve had it since I was probably 17, found at an opshop. It’s the only thing I have carried with me to every country/town I have lived in.
She’s had the sleeves chopped off, waist taken in and then back out, patches sewn on and picked off. Currently, there are little pink flowers on the front and a death metal patch on the back.
Tau Subriztky, stylist and sales associate
I think one of the oldest pieces in my wardrobe is a hand-painted Ksubi denim vest that I bought at Beacon’s Closet when I lived in New York in 2010.
Truthfully I’ve thought about passing it on to someone who would appreciate it, but it reminds me of a really fun time in my life, and I now keep it folded up in a drawer. I’m not sure if I’ll ever wear it again, but it does make me smile when I look at it.
Rob Tennent, stylist and casting director for The Ensemble Edit
I have a beautiful blue button-up shacket that I fished out of my father’s closet when he was no longer able to wear all his clothes. I went through and searched for pieces of his that his father had handed down. I have a lot of beautiful fleece jumpers from my father, who got them from his.
Rebecca Wadey, Ensemble co-founder
I’m a terrible hoarder who loves holding onto clothes for the memories, even if I’ll never wear them again. I have an attic full of clothes from Sister (Kate Sylvester’s brand before she became Kate Sylvester), Streetlife (Helen Cherry’s early incarnation), Zambesi, Karen Walker and World, purchased with my student loan in the ‘90s (paying off this loan in 2020 was a bright point in a low year).
In 1999, I moved to Melbourne to do post-grad and had a job as a ‘lifestyle consultant’ (aka shop girl) in a very fancy department store. We earned commission in gift vouchers, so I had an enviable wardrobe for an otherwise struggling student. I still have so many shoes from this time, including an amazing pair of Tom Ford-era Gucci boots, knee-high, suede, ruched and tasseled that I will never part with.
Looking back I am very stuck in the ‘90s, it was a very formative time in fashion for me!
Rosie Carroll, blogger for @itsslowmo, founder of The Nifty Markets, social media co-ordinator at Trade Aid
My favourite pair of vintage 501 Levi’s. I bought them in Venice Beach in 2018, but they were made in the late 1980s.
I remember thinking that the exchange rate was terrible at the time, and that they were really expensive because of it. But I bought them anyway, and I’m so glad I did, because I haven’t stopped wearing them since!
Glen Prentice, freelance designer and fashion lecturer
It’s not very old to be honest, but a mammoth, fluffy late 1970s camel duffel coat with quilted lining from Starstruck Vintage in the West Village - which is no longer in business. This coat got me through a few New York winters but is unfortunately too hot for New Zealand so is currently in storage.
