On Tuesday, the Environmental Protection Authority (EPA) announced that the use of PFAS – commonly called ‘forever chemicals’ – will be banned in cosmetic products in New Zealand by the end of 2026.
After some desk research, we were left with more questions than answers about what this means for our hoarder-level obsession with beauty products. It’s complicated, but here is our basic explainer of the new ruling, some background, and what might happen next.
OK. So what exactly are ‘forever chemicals’?
Forever chemicals refers to PFAS (or perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances) which are a large, complex group of synthetic chemicals. They have been used widely since about the 1950s to make all sorts of consumer products that can resist water, heat, oil and stains. Think Teflon pans and grease-proof paper, water-proof rain jackets and yoga pants. They’re also found in cleaning products, furniture, adhesives and fire-fighting foam.
In terms of cosmetics, PFAS can sometimes be used in products like mascara, foundation, lipstick, eyeliner, nail polish, dental floss, shaving foams and shampoos. According to the EPA, “they are added to smooth the skin, or to make cosmetic products more durable, spreadable and water resistant.”
Why are they being banned?
There are two reasons: the risk they pose to the environment, and our health.
PFAS have extremely strong bonds that make them virtually indestructible, meaning they don’t easily break down in the environment. Over time, they can accumulate in our air, water and soil, and eventually, us.
Some studies in the US and in Europe have shown that the build up of PFAS in our bodies can be toxic at high levels.
But, it’s important to note the EPA are calling the ban a “precautionary approach” – there is no categorical research to link your waterproof mascara to cancer, for example.
Are we the first country to do this?
While NZ could be the first entire country to take this step in cosmetics, several states in the US have already banned PFAS in specific products like dental floss and menstrual products, and California was the first major jurisdiction to ban all PFAS in cosmetics in 2022. Denmark was the first country to ban the use of PFAS in food packaging in 2020. Expect to see more countries in the EU roll out similar regulations.
What is the timeline for the ban in New Zealand?
From December 31, 2026, cosmetic products containing PFAS will be banned from being imported or manufactured in New Zealand. From December 31, 2027, cosmetic products containing PFAS can no longer be sold or supplied in New Zealand, and by June 30, 2028, all cosmetic products containing PFAS must be disposed of.
Suddenly I’m scared of my makeup bag… should I just throw everything out?
Well no, that would be wasteful and equally as bad for the environment. Frustratingly, it’s very hard to tell if a product contains PFAS. Martha Van Arts, the general manager of Cosmetics New Zealand, says she would struggle to identify a PFAS ingredient on the back of a bottle, even with her technical background.
But there is promising news: no cosmetics manufacturers in New Zealand who were surveyed by the EPA currently use PFAS in their products. The new ruling will impact international brands, which make up around a whopping 90 percent of cosmetics sold here according to Prof Allan Blackman at Auckland University of Technology’s school of science.
“In my experience, [PFAS] is more of an American and European thing,” says Van Arts. “We might see a very minimal reduction on the number of products that are sold here come 2027. And I think that the regulatory teams in the companies that are using PFAS will ensure that everything's regulated. Generally speaking, everyone's feeling on board with compliance. So that's good from an industry perspective.
"In reality, it's such a small part of a small section of cosmetics. There's possibly bigger fish to fry just with packaging recyclability, to put it into perspective. But yeah, we will probably all have runny runny mascara."
If these chemicals are so bad for us and the environment, why are they only being banned in cosmetics?
Good question – they’re not just looking at cosmetics. According to the EPA, “banning these chemicals in cosmetics is part of our ongoing response, which includes phasing out all PFAS-firefighting foams and testing for background levels of PFAS in the New Zealand environment.” We read that as: Watch this space.
