After a very toned down Oscars last year, a steady decline in ratings over a number of years and, much like the British royal family, calls for the establishment to be modernised and more inclusive, the Oscars red carpet was back with a vengeance.

The scene outside the Dolby Theatre in LA was a curious, chaotic mash of old meets new that had some of us asking, is this the MTV Awards or the Academy Awards?

From Kourtney Kardashian and Travis Barker licking each other's faces through to Chloe x Halle’s slit to the tummy button gowns, one can imagine the old establishment Oscar crowd clutching their (Tiffany & Co.) pearls in consternation.

Even the more respected clothes horses of the industry pushed the envelope well beyond an expected Oscar comfy zone (we’re looking at you Timothée and KStew).

Below, those we feel walked the fine line in a way that we liked, as chosen by Ensemble co-founders Zoe Walker Ahwa, Rebecca Wadey and stylist and friend of Ensemble Sammy Salsa. As always, fashion is subjective - that’s the beauty of expression!‍

Maggie Gyllenhaal in Schiaparelli‍

The silhouette, the gold adornments, the way it sat on Maggie with just the right amount of volume and paired with her pixie cut, this is by far my best dressed. Not many people could carry this look, Maggie has proven that she is a Schiaparelli girl for sure! - Sammy Salsa‍

Maya Rudolph in Valentino‍

A bright orange, feathered caftan on the red carpet is definitely a choice, and Maya has nailed it. She looks like a retro, whimsical dream - combining an old-school glamour with comfort and more importantly, fun. - Zoe Walker Ahwa‍

Jessica Chastain in Gucci‍

Jessica is usually dullsville on the red carpet (sorry Jessica, no shade. It’s just like it’s not the most important part of your job for you which is okay!) but she nailed it in this Gucci. One of the biggest trends showcased today was prom; a welcome return to joy and fun which we are all for but can be very hard to pull off.

The frills at the bottom of the dress do this perfectly and the balayage-esque top stops it from being too princess-y. Friend of Ensemble Sammy Salsa did point out that he didn’t like her hair and now we can’t unsee that, but other than that we are all for this look and Jessica’s recent red carpet vibe shift. - Rebecca Wadey‍

Zoë Kravitz in Saint Laurent‍

Another who took the prom trend - but elevated it. This look is reminiscent of Gwyneth’s infamous Ralph Lauren look of 1999 but is infinitely cooler. Because, Zoë. - ZWA

‍Kristen Stewart in Chanel‍

It’s not my favourite look, but it definitely deserves a mention. Her look is disruptive to the traditional dress code of what the Oscars is known for. And I’m here for that! These young nominees are bringing a fresh new “edgy” take on the traditional red carpet looks. - SS‍

Tracee Ellis Ross in Carolina Herrera‍

Tracee is always one to watch on the red carpet because she clearly loves fashion and enjoys having fun with it. Again, no shade to those who find it awkward and uncomfortable. Here, she does prom and looks like she is ready to carve up the dance floor. It’s definitely a party we’d like to be at. - RW‍

Kodi Smit-McPhee in Bottega Veneta‍

Love a man who considers the style possibility of a red carpet (see also: Oscar Isaac, Timothée Chalamet, the late Chadwick Boseman) and Kodi is exceptional in this ice-blue suit adorned with Cartier jewels. More fun with menswear, please! - ZWA‍

Zendaya in Valentino‍

Zendaya and her stylist Law Roach are really on another level when it comes to red carpet partnerships. That said, this isn’t the strongest look we’ve seen them do together. But even on an off day they are strong. This Valentino midriff look takes from the iconic Sharon Stone/Gap shirt red carpet moment of 1996 and builds into a new era for a new world. - RW‍

Lupita Nyong’o in Prada‍

Every year someone dresses like an actual Oscar and this year it’s Lupita. But Oscar himself (themself? Let’s modernise Oscar) could never look this chic and fun. The movement, the sparkle, the open back - the whole thing screams joy and comfort. Another dress that would work as well on a dance floor as it does a red carpet. But it’s the hair that’s the real star of this look.

Lupita worked with longtime hairstylist Vernon Francis on “a blend of basket weaving, wefting and loc extension techniques to create an asymmetric playful structure that echoes the floral design of [her] dress”. - RW