In my experience as a makeup artist and occasional beauty writer, talking to people about beauty – despite its superficial nature – always leads to something deep.
When I found myself on a photoshoot painting Robyn Malcolm’s face, a legendary Kiwi TV matriarch, I had a hunch she would go deep, real quick. Within 40 minutes we had discussed Botox, birthing, Trump, Hollywood stars who were actually dicks, and our thoughts on a new foundation.
All the most interesting women shave their hair off at least once in their lives (I’m happy being boring). Like designer Kristine Crabb, Malcolm has gone bald, gone goth, and also, thanks to the magic of SFX makeup, gone 86-years-old.
In an industry rife with snake oil and fear-mongers, Malcolm’s outlook on beauty is refreshingly honest, as you’d expect from her well-documented views on mental health and ageism.
This deep-dive through her archives isn’t only her life ‘in looks’, but in moments where she felt the most beautiful. For Malcolm, there’s a clear distinction between true beauty and “a bloody good pampering” – something we could all be reminded of.
What is your earliest memory of beauty?
My Mum; then and now.
What’s the first fragrance you ever owned?
Magie Noire by Lancôme because it seemed to go well with cigarette smoke LOL.
Who are your biggest beauty influences?
I’m sorry… I really tried to answer this question but I’m not really looking for that kind of influence. If that makes sense. It’s like asking who are my biggest socks influences? I mean, I like socks and I wear them, and I like ones without holes and sometimes I wear sparkly socks, but I’m not influenced by any particular sock person.
Maybe I could say the people in my life who are TRULY beautiful souls influence me greatly. And I’m lucky because I have a number of those: women and men. My sisters because we love talking about that stuff. We all come from political talky families so when we get together we talk extensively about cruelty-free lipstick. Plus my sisters are three of the most beautiful women I know.
What was the first beauty product you fell in love with?
Well that becomes about affordability! Johnson’s baby lotion. And then [Olay] Oil of Ulan! I also discovered rinsing your hair in vinegar made it shine.
Do you follow any beauty trends?
No. I’m a magpie… I buy what I like.
What is your ethos when it comes to beauty?
Well in Greek mythology, beauty transcends the physical and becomes more importantly about spirituality, intellect, and metaphysics. I think it’s about that. I’m far more interested in the beauty of the mind and spirit and soul of the person.
Women just after they’ve given birth have an extraordinary beauty. It’s because of what their body and spirit has just exppared to a baby's smile, a sunset, a group of people laughing, a kind act, an old tree… I know that sounds a bit cliched but I genuinely mean that. Think about it? Who gives a toss about eyeshadow when you are standing in front of Tāne Mahuta.
Any hair and or makeup looks you would love to try that you haven’t yet?
No. I get to try out lots of looks when I’m working… that’s enough for me!
Beauty is inextricably tied to youth in our culture. What has been your approach to ageing, personally?
Accepting it. You have to. If you fight it you’ll lose and end up looking like a Gorgon; like some of those people who have face lifts etc. Ageing is an extraordinary process and it’s something to be in a daily conversation with.
Because, as [actress] Emma Thompson said, your body is your house… it carries YOU. When it starts to creak and slow down and get sore then there are things you can do to help the experience of living continue to be active, vibrant, challenging and rewarding. I see that as taking care of YOU.
Ageing is just about wise self care as far as I can see, and the continuing life’s work of loving the skin you’re in. And also there are far more important things to be worrying about.
As an actor, you get to experiment with so many different looks. What has been your favourite role to sit in the makeup chair for?
Well on set makeup is about creativity. On one hand I love being in the makeup chair because it’s when you get fussed over by experts who tend to be gorgeous people which is lovely. But it’s also about creativity. I love it when I sit in the chair and nothing much happens but a good gossip, and I leave pretty much as I sat down but in a good mood!
I did one job where they aged me up to 86 and I loved that. It was genuinely a work of art. So beautiful to watch happen. The creation of it was amazing.
Do you have any beauty must-haves when you’re on set?
Anna, my makeup artist, reminded me that I do have an on set must: Trinny London BFF cream. I’ve used it on my last three jobs. It’s an amazing product, improves skin tone/texture without camouflaging. You can be on film and it looks like you are not wearing anything at all but a little glow. Plus it’s got SPF. It’s a truly brilliant product and I go through tubes of it!
What’s the most important beauty lesson you have learned?
That it’s kinda bollocks the way we look at it. The notion of beauty has been reduced since the Greeks and it became a way for women in particular to be judged and to judge. You can have a person who is aesthetically judged to be staggeringly beautiful, you meet them, they are an arsehole and they become unbeautiful very very quickly. It was described once to me as having “acne on the soul”.
And that beauty and youth are entirely separate and unrelated. They have quite literally nothing to do with each other.
What beauty look or item makes you feel like your true authentic self?
In my togs on a beach with salt from the ocean on my skin and in my hair.
If you could create or collaborate on your own beauty product, what would it be?
A really, really good hand cream for gardener’s hands. I’ve tried them all and there’s nothing out there I’ve discovered yet which cuts it. Most just fade away to nothing over the course of the evening and you’re still left with rough builders’ hands by bedtime!
What’s currently on your beauty wish list?
Acknowledging all of the above, I also have to say that I’m a sucker for things in bottles. Lotions and potions. Things that are yummy and smell gorgeous. But I’d call that pampering rather than a beauty routine, if that makes sense. I could make a list of 100 things here because I believe in a bloody good pampering. Particularly if someone else is doing the pampering.
1. There’s a skincare range called Biojuve and they are all about restoring bacteria on the skin to what it should be.
2. A lifetime supply of any fragrance I want. I love perfumes obsessively. Apparently the new thing is to layer them, which seems excessive to me but I get the deliciousness of that. Smell is our most evocative of all the senses so to be able to play in that realm forever excites me a hell of a lot. At the moment I love Le Labo Patchouli 24 and a perfume called Daphne by Comme des Garçons. It’s been discontinued so you have to hunt for it.
3. A lifetime voucher for face massages. They are the best. They lift all the muscles in your face and boost serotonin. You feel incredible when you leave. I was having them regularly working in Hobart and became addicted.
4. Emma Lewisham Illuminating Face and Body Oil, $90. So luxurious and yummy and Kiwi. Adore this stuff.
5. Glossier Lash Slick mascara, $43
