The world of makeup brushes can be intimidating. Navigating the different sizes, shapes, fibres and code names is overwhelming, especially with so many brand options available to us now. 

Still, what differentiates a ‘professional’ application to a slap-dash one is the right tools - and knowing how to use them. If you’re applying your foundation with a crumbling sponge that has never been cleaned, or trying to blend eyeshadow with a balding brush, it’s time for an upgrade.

When it comes to brushes, we all know that actual makeup artists have the most credibility here. They work with real people all day, everyday, and know what difference a good brush makes. To help simplify things, we asked some experts to share the makeup brush MVPs everyone needs to know about. 

Do I even need makeup brushes?

It’s true that some of the greatest makeup artists don’t use brushes at all. Pat McGrath famously applies lipstick with her fingertips, stamping the colour on her model’s Cupid’s bow. French makeup artist Violette always blends out her concealer and cream blush with her fingers. Then there are other, less kosher techniques, like ‘softening’ the nib of an eye pencil with a Bic lighter for a more intense, smudged look (this is not Brat, do not attempt). 

According to Lenita Seker, MECCA Makeup Artist, using your hands to apply makeup can be er… handy, on occasions, “However, when applying product to different areas of the face, like your eyes or cheeks a makeup brush will ensure precise and smooth application. Brushes will blend makeup easier and quicker, helping you to use less product and avoid mess.”

There’s a time and a place for fingers - if you’re on holiday, or if you’re in a rush. Otherwise, a few tools will make your beauty routine a lot easier, more hygienic, and give you a smoother result. 

What differentiates a $25 brush from a $125 one? 

“The difference in brushes can vary based on the brand, the materials used to create them, the brush fibres themselves and the durability of the brush. It all depends on your specific needs and preferences,” explains Seker. 

Generally, hand-made brushes are higher quality and therefore more expensive than machine-cut ones. You can expect softer, more tapered bristles for superior blending, and the brush itself will shed less and have more longevity.

For top-tier quality, many makeup artists swear by the handcrafted fude brushes from Japan. Some of the oldest companies like Hakuhodo and Chikuhodo still use the traditional hand-bundled technique to make their brushes, which can set you back around $157 NZD for a classic foundation brush made of goat hair. 

Speaking of, natural (animal-based) fibres are usually more expensive than synthetic ones. While many makeup artists prefer the softness of fibres made from goat, badger, mink, and squirrel, the technology used to create synthetic fibres is so advanced these days that the difference can be minimal. Brands like Rae Morris, Shiseido, MAC, and even traditional Japanese brands now produce entirely synthetic brushes that have been designed to mimic the cuticle of natural animal hair. 

If you’re starting out, invest in the brushes you’ll be using and washing most frequently, like foundation, concealer, or face powder brushes. Looked after properly, they should last you upwards of three years. 

Best quality natural fibre makeup brushes: Surratt, Hakuhodo, Chikuhodo. 

Best quality synthetic makeup brushes: Rae Morris, MAC, Shiseido, Hourglass, Nars. 

Best affordable makeup brushes: Real Techniques, MyKitCo, Morphe, Zoeva.

If I’m starting from scratch, where should I begin?

Despite having full tool belts to choose from, most makeup artists will reach for the same few favourites again and again. Here is a small edit approved by the pros that will cover all your bases. 

1. Small fluffy brush for blending eyeshadow

“The M.A.C 217S, $59, is the OG of all makeup brushes. Designed for blending eyeshadow, it can be used for concealer as well. I love this for buffing out the seams of an eye look.” - Chanelle Aldrgide

“I am obsessed with the Morphe M433 Firm Blending Fluff Brush, $13, and own about 20 of them. These are extremely versatile. From liquid concealer, powder and cream eyeshadows, this brush applies product so effortlessly when buffing and sweeping. The size of the brush is just big enough for eye makeup, especially dispersing product onto the crease.” - Liz Hyun 

“The Zoeva 228 crease definer brush, $27, is the easiest eyeshadow brush to work with. If in a time pinch I can even use this one brush to do my whole eye look. Blends eyeshadows out seamlessly and is super soft. I also love to use it for powder nose contouring. Just BOMB. I’ve had mine for years and it never sheds and always returns to brand new after washing.” - Tallulah McLean (LookBomb) 

‍2. Complexion brush for foundation and cream/liquid blush or bronzer

“I own about 12 of the Real Techniques Seamless Complexion Brushes, $20 each. It sounds excessive but these are very versatile. The way that the bristles are tapered on an angle, disperses product seamlessly as it sits in between a flat brush and a buffing brush. You can easily pat or sweep any liquids and creams on to the face using this as the fibres are densely packed. I mostly use this for foundation, cream bronzer and liquid blush.” - Liz Hyun 

“I adore the M.A.C 170S Rounded Slant Brush, $106, for buffing on skincare and massaging serums/balms into the skin. You can use it quite firmly to massage, plumping up skin and bringing the blood to the surface at the same time. Alternatively it’s brilliant for lightweight liquid foundations too.” - Kiekie Stanners

“A double-ended complexion brush is really great value if you’re starting out. Hourglass makes some of my favourite synthetic brushes, and I love the two different sizes of the Ambient Lighting Edit Brush, $92. It’s perfect for blending foundation, cream blush, highlighter or bronzer and saves space when you travel.” - Lara Daly

“I use a small synthetic blending brush for blending out under eyes and cream products (especially blush) - this is a must for a seamless finish! The Real Techniques Brightening Concealer Brush, $18, is super affordable and fail proof for beginners.” - Tallulah McLean 

3. Small face powder brush for contouring and setting

"I recently purchased the Rae Morris Jishaku #3 Ultimate Cheekbone Brush, $196, and it's quickly become my favourite for applying cream and powder contour. Its ergonomic shape 'hugs' the curves and contours of the cheekbone and jawline. When I lightly 'stamp' my product on, the brush falls into the natural contours, almost like a magnet. I then use it to buff the product in, for an undetectable blend. Great for those who don't have time for guess-work!” - Lochie Stonehouse

“A small powder brush is beautiful for hugging the contours and curves of the face. It’s great for powdering underneath the eyes, around the nose and chin as its delicate size means you get more control with where your powder product lays. The MyKitCo Flawless Face Small Brush 0.21, $35, feels amazing on the skin.” - Kiekie Stanners

4. Small dense fluffy brush for concealer

“Earlier this year I found the Fillimilli Corrector Brush 811, $23, when I was in Korea at a store called Olive Young. I immediately purchased it because I knew this would be incredible for under eye concealer and blemishes. It did not disappoint! The brush is densely packed which means that it won’t waste and absorb the products.” - Liz Hyun 

“My favourite for perfectly buffing concealer or base products across the skin is the Hakuhodo EyeShadow Brush Round, $80. It feels like the softest lil bunny-tail, and beautifully smoothes and polishes for a veil-like effect.” - Kiekie Stanners

“For concealer, small and dense is key, but still a little fluffy. This should be a brush that you deep-clean often (especially if you’re concealing acne!) so invest in a good quality synthetic fibre brush that will stand up to regular cleaning. I like the Nars Soft Matte Complete Concealer brush, $49.” - Lara Daly

5. Multi-purpose small flat brush

“I use the MyKitCo 0.2 Precision Concealer Brush, $24, to carve out eyebrows, create different shapes in eyeshadows, clean up eyeliner/eyeshadow, lay down under eye concealer and clean up the lip line! It’s so flat and precise that you can really perfect any area in which you’re using it.” - Tallulah McLean

“The M.A.C 239S, $72, is maybe my favourite brush ever. It packs on colour, applies cream eyeshadow, buffs lip liner out, fills eyebrows, conceals spots, the works. A super multi-talented does-it-all kind of girl.” - Chanelle Aldridge

‍The brush techniques makeup artists swear by

Press and roll. 

Pressing and rolling is a technique that many makeup artists use to ‘set’ the face, as a final step. “This involves pressing loose powder into a powder or setting brush and then pressing and rolling the brush on the skin to lock in the products underneath. This technique avoids swiping or dusting the brush, rather it is about pressing and patting to set the products underneath,” says Seker.

Tap and buff.

This is the technique makeup artists love to use for concealer, using a dense, fluffy eyeshadow brush to apply. “I like to use the tip of the brush to pat concealer on to the skin for spot covering blemishes or any imperfections, then blend out the edges,” says Hyun.

Use a powder brush for liquid foundation.

“One of my favourite brush techniques to create a smooth, flawless foundation is using a fluffy, contoured powder brush to apply. This buffs product seamlessly across skin creating a veil of foundation rather than a heavy application,” says Stanners.

Always use a damp sponge.

“Sponges can be fantastic for dewy and radiant formulations and for pressing and blending products under the eyes. A sponge can sometimes absorb extra product, so try using your sponge slightly damp to avoid this,” says Seker. 

Don’t overload your brush.

“Always apply a minimal amount of product to your brush. Think multiple sheer and minimal layers. It's easy to go back a second-time and add more product to your brush, but it's much harder to remove when you have been too heavy-handed!” says Stonehouse.

“My favourite brush technique is priming brushes on the back of your hand to evenly disperse the product before going in on the client's face. It stops the fallout with powder products too,” says Aldridge. 

How often should I clean my makeup brushes?

Cleaning your brushes regularly will keep them - and your skin - in the best condition. It’s a good idea to sanitise your brushes between uses, and do a ‘deep clean’ at least once every two weeks to ensure no product is trapped inside the heart of the brush. 

How to sanitise makeup brushes

Spraying your brush with a brush cleanser and removing pigment with a paper towel is the fastest way to clean, sterilise and be ready to use it again. This quick-dry option requires a brush sanitizer (at least 70% isopropyl alcohol) and a paper towel. Spray a small amount of sanitiser on a folded paper towel and swipe your brush back and forth to remove product. This will ensure you always have a fresh application and prevent bacteria ending up on your skin. 

Best brush sanitisers: Mecca Brush With Success, $38 for 150ml. Cinema Secrets Professional Brush Cleaner Spray, $27 for 60ml. 

DIY: Mix isopropyl alcohol with water at a 70:30 ratio and add a few drops of essential oil (optional). Pour into an empty spray bottle. 

How to deep clean makeup brushes 

While most makeup artists deep-clean their brushes between every client, once a week or once every two weeks should be plenty for personal use.

Using warm, not hot, water and a brush soap of your choice, wet the brush bristles and create a lather in the palm of your hand, gently swirling and massage the bristles, holding it ‘downstream’ to prevent water build-up at the base of the brush.

Rinse until the lather runs clean, then squeeze out excess water, reshape the brush and lay it flat to dry overnight over the edge of a bench, either in the sun or a hot water cupboard.

Don’t use hot water as it can break down the glue at the base of the brush and cause shedding.  

Best deep-cleaning brush products: Sunlight Laundry Soap, $4.80. Master’s Brush Cleaner, $9. Dr. Bronner’s 18-In-1 Liquid Soap Tea-Tree, $25.50. Sigma Express Brush Cleaning Glove, $57.