This story is part of Ensemble's fashion week coverage, supported by Viaduct Harbour
From dollar bills to runway thrills, NZ Fashion Week stands as the most exciting and anxiety-inducing few days of any fashionista’s calendar. A playground of creativity and experimentation, the journey to NZFW can take on various hues, with each participant's experience tinted by the brush of their budget.
Considering high-end designers, vintage boutiques as well as personal wardrobes, three students shed light on the unique perspectives that arise when preparing for a grand event at varying price points.
Follow the mid-range maven, the luxe-loving diva and the thrift-store sensation’s attempt to answer the most important question on everyone’s lips this week: What will I wear to NZ Fashion Week?
Abby: Lazy girl attempts to be effortlessly flawless
Shirt - owned, Zara. Jacket - borrowed, vintage. Rest thrifted
My approach to building outfits is simple: comfort and convenience are key. I am looking for staples that can be worn everyday, with anything, and preferably get them delivered to my doorstep.
None of this is conducive to the challenge I was set – to thrift an entire outfit to wear to NZFW. Searching the racks for stand-out pieces could not be more different to my usual methods – online shopping for reliable basics – but I was determined to prove that it’s possible to find outfits suitable for the biggest fashion event in Aotearoa from sustainable and affordable sources.
Work with what you’ve got
We spent some time at Paper Bag Princess, the converted bank on Karangahape Road whose old vault now houses a treasure trove of thrift bargains. Manager Chloe offered advice to enlighten the fashion novices among us (just me). She said shopping sustainably starts before you even step foot in the op shop: “Avoid buying things just for one event if you can. You have way more in your wardrobe at home than you think you do.”
There are a million new and exciting ways to rework what you have, so try and resist the urge to buy something new. And cast your net wider – source from friends, flatmates, fashionable aunties. Don’t be afraid to beg, borrow, and (find a) steal – you never know who has their grandfather’s spectacular fringe jacket hanging in their closet just waiting to see the sunlight again.
Once you’ve tapped your networks, try looking for those finishing touches secondhand before shopping new. If the task feels daunting, you can always enlist help. “We know where all the good stuff is”, says Chloe. “So just ask the op shop workers if they have what you’re looking for.”
Experiment with texture
The opportunity to be bold at a place like NZFW is exciting, but all the possibilities can be overwhelming. I felt frustrated about wanting to try something new, but also only feeling comfortable in neutrals, usually defaulting to all black.
Chloe’s advice was that texture is the way to go: “try and aim to have four different fabrics on you in each outfit.” I managed to find some Issey-Miyake-esque pleated pants, and a leather and steel belt both for under $20 to add some material variety, without straying too far from my normal colour palette in order to compliment what I already own.
Chloe’s expertise helped to refocus me: that while fashion is about being adventurous, it’s a form of self-expression first and foremost. “You know what makes you look and feel good, so always start there.” So I focused on expanding my comfort zone rather than jumping out of it, which meant I could make an outfit that made me feel confident, without making any wasteful purchases, or breaking the bank.
Paris: Homegrown and high-end
Penny Sage coat. NOM*d top and skirt.
Nothing highlights the inadequacy of my wardrobe more quickly, or effectively, than the act of planning outfits for NZFW. In past years, I’ve used the occasion as an excuse to splurge on pieces that now sit at the back of my wardrobe, with a very slim chance of ever being worn again. If this vicious cycle has taught me anything, it’s the importance of buying consciously and investing in versatility.
Support your local
When choosing which brands to support, it’s never a bad idea to go local. New Zealanders are spoiled for choice when it comes to high-quality, ethical brands; it’s just a matter of hunting for something that works in the context of your own personal style.
The top and skirt combo I pulled together are both from NOM*d, and the coat is a classic Penny Sage number. All elements could be considered minimal but, when layered, feel a little more NZFW-worthy.
This means that when the shows are done and dusted, I’ll still have three pieces that can be dressed down for everyday wear. Finding pieces that can be integrated into your existing aesthetic is the best way to curate a timeless wardrobe, thus reducing the need for extra spending (apply girl-math logic here). Flexibility is exactly what you should look for when shopping for high-end pieces.
Invest for the future
When adding to your wardrobe, it’s equally important to consider the garment’s fabrication. Most of us have, at some stage, fallen into the trap of buying faux leather shoes to save a little cash, just for them to fall apart a month later. It’s the same with any garment; longevity often requires investment.
The best advice I’ve been given is to pay close attention to what my clothes are made of. High-quality fabrics will not only look better, last longer and wear better, but also feel nicer against your skin.
As NOM*d and Penny Sage are both known for producing sustainable clothing, I feel better about investing in their garments, knowing they’ll last. Pre-NZFW purchases shouldn’t be worn once and tucked away at the back of your closet. Shopping sustainably means opting for timeless pieces that’ll still be going strong for years to come.
While I’ve taken the high-end perspective here, I want to highlight that no one should feel obligated to drop hundreds (or thousands) of dollars to dress themselves for a show.
Hordes of immaculately-dressed fashion enthusiasts are intimidating, but it’s worth considering that most of the attendees in head-to-toe designer were loaned pieces specifically for NZFW. This places those with fashion connections in an extremely privileged position, allowing them to pull together high-end outfits they wouldn’t otherwise have access to.
So if you are planning to expand your wardrobe pre-NZFW, look for pieces that work with what you already have or that you can see yourself reaching for in the future. Consider the ethos of the brands you’re sporting and support local as often as you can. The most fashionable thing you can do when shopping is keeping it sustainable.
Mairātea: D.I.Y in the D.N.A
Hand-me-down top; thrifted skirt; jacket stolen from brother’s closet; glasses from LookSharp.
At this stage of my life, my wardrobe is at least 85% thrifted. I’m not sure if this is because I grew up in hand-me-downs or because I enjoy the exclusivity of a thrifted good, but you’ll hardly find me in anything new. In my years of quietly curating I’ve discovered a personal sense of style, something I call obnoxious maximalist. Think colour, lots of layers and tacky accessories.
This year for NZFW, continuing on from a personal challenge I set myself last year to not buy any new clothes, I’ve decided I would exclusively dress myself in pieces I already owned.
Expect anything
I like to think there’s a thrift God high above us who occasionally blesses the lucky few with cheap designer or luxe vintage. Some days I strike gold, others I’m paying $20 for a neck scarf– – swings and roundabouts I say.
Stacey at Sinda, a mother and daughter owned vintage store inside of Karangahape Road’s St Kevins Arcade, talked about opening yourself up for any opportunity. “With op shops it’s a much more intentional shopping experience. Make it a day and take the time to search through everything, who knows what you’ll find.” I’ve managed to find shirts hidden within racks of jackets and gorgeous one-pieces at the very bottom of sale bins.
Some personal rules I follow: give everything at least one pass, your ‘maybe’ pile probably has more duds than you think and always, ALWAYS leave the store after a big score. This is to ensure you pass on some of that good fortune.
Upcycle!
When discussing upcycling the topic of reselling often accompanies it. In a time of side-hustles and the constant grind some thrifters have taken it upon themselves to make a business out of flipping finds from the second-hand store online.
Chloe from Paperbag Princess is of two minds, while she commends resellers for saving clothes from the landfill she also recognises the potential buy that many shoppers are missing out on. As she puts it, “You’re literally taking the ‘opportunity’ out of op shop.”
Instead she encourages all to upcycle their clothes and reinvent what they already have. In my case I like to think of all the ‘wrong’ ways I can wear a piece of clothing. Dresses as skirts, necklaces as belts, and just like in the film Confessions of a Shopaholic – pants as scarves. I’ve learnt my way around a needle and thread and enjoy sewing patches and cute buttons on my things, it helps extend their life and feel more personal.
At the end of the day getting ready should be about experimentation, having fun, and wearing something that makes you feel confident. Whether you choose the opulent, the savvy, or the secondhand chic, there are no rules – only an appreciation of individualism.
While the price points for clothes may vary for everyone, the passion for fashion is truly priceless. Good luck!